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It's not in need of a good lube on the pivot or ends of the falk?

It already has, everything moves freely, except for the diaphragm. I just checked, the old one was the exact same part number as the new one. They should be behaving the same but they aren't even close.

Maybe whoever put the pressure plate together didn't put lube of the pivot rings. Thats about the only thing left that would make the noise. Did you have a close look at the falk where it pivots on the ball. I have had them crack and make a noise.

The corner was bent a little from probably being dropped at some point, but it was not on the actually pivot receptacle and it all moved perfectly.

I'd wager it's just a bad pressure plate.

Clutch is really slipping now, have to baby it and overtaking is difficult as I can't go more than 1/4 throttle.

On the subject I bought a T5 box from a friend I haven't seen in nearly 10 years, he has a few Buick v6 cars, all T5 and also mentioned that all of them the clutches were crap and burnt out easy and vibrated the pedal a lot, even the HD one. He said they were all exedy. So there you go! This is a wide spread problem.

I recommended to him the Extreme brand as they have not let me down and are of great value.


Anyway, the T5 I got off him is a 93 model with the reverse brake. The casing is really nice and not all dinged up like most are these days. This will be the box for the VP S.

When I order an overhaul kit from the US, I'll also order the 5th reverse brake type synch hub and all the bits for it, and use the normal one I already have for the white car. That should work out nicely

Hadn't updated the thread in a while, busy with life events and what not.

But I got a new Xteme entry level HD hit and also found the new input shaft seal I got off the shelf was leaking like a something British. So I got a genuine NOK seal as per factory unit. That solved the leak and the clutch has been great since. Has really good bite, chirps gears when you punch the pedal swiftly.



In my other thread about the heater taps all failing within days to weeks. I have the BA/BF and VZ style all plastic ones coming, PN: HV2005 and hopefully that solves the leaks and not actually turning off the heater issues.


With the white car, now that I am off work and looking for a new job. I used the spare time to do a few things where my budget allows.


For the T5 conversion I have had a few bits blasted and painted. Waiting for a few small items for zinc plating too.

I have got Hopper's stoppers conversion hoses already, they made them on the spot to suit the odd ball late VP standard to VT-VZ upgrade. I can't speak highly enough of them, their quality, knowledge and advise closed a lot of misconceptions and questions I had regarding brake upgrades I had for years.

For the VP S I am going to ditch the OEM style calipers and use their 4 pod ones. Which is a good thing, as I am not having much luck getting good VT calipers. 3 sets in, and all left ones are stuffed from pitting in the seal grooves.

I am taking my mate's old VY as he always bleed and flushed the brakes with each pad/rotor change. So there's a good chance the left one will be ok.


Also preping a few suspension bits for the white car. Super pro also just released a repro arm set with their bushes for VB-VP Will make my job so much easier!


And! I got 2 sets of these VN-VP factory to standard 4" aftermarket speaker adapter mounts.

When I did the new clutch again. This was much better quality, larger surface area on the disk for the same pressure plate size and the pressure plate itself had cut outs around the mounting bolts so you can actually use a socket unlike the Exedy one I had.


As mentioned in the previous post, the seal leaked like crazy but I couldn't find what the actual problem with it was. The genuine seal is the one with the funky single lip design. They make them, but are very hard to source. The gearbox place I used years ago in Thomastown sold me 2 recently but wouldn't give me any more. They wouldn't tell me their source.

Anyway, this is how I tested before before fitting the box back in. Half filled with fluid. No leaks!


For the white car, the VSS assembly is all good to go, NOS sensor, replated parts, new O ring


I'm waiting for these to be plated, I've pulled apart the few used shifters I have and will rebuild one for now with the best used bits to go on the white car.

Then later if I can get another shaft that's not excessively worn, I'll build another 2 using donor parts from the ones that In-Tech got for me

The US variant of these are factory short shifters compared to ours, and are not great for clearance to the lower boot, negative clearance in fact.
I want to change my Walkinshaw performance billet one on the red car back to a standard one. Was never happy with the effort needed to shift, and the lower boot had to be glued on to stop it popping out due to the shifter pushing up through the floor plate.

Oddly, the factory Holden ones came in 2 lengths. I figured that the later shorter ones are for service related clearance to the floor plate opening when replacing the clutch. I found the shitbox is the older longer type, and it was a challenge to get the shaft to get past the floor plate into the hole while inserting the input shaft into the clutch while keeping it all aligned. It needs just about 10-15mm clearance, exactly what the shorter ones are for it seems.

The lower part of the shaft and pivot points are unchanged, so there is no difference to the driver using either.

I also managed to find the same-ish solid steel rivets from China that these are held together with. A practise run on the 20T press with the rivets is in order I think before just trying to wing it. I never used these type of rivets before but I am sure I can work it out.

In-Tech wrote:

Cheers!

Hey, did I sort out the balance I owed you for sending that stuff over?

I recall there was a difference from what I sent vs what the shipping ended up actually costing. Let me know.


Oh, and like I mentioned a while back. I have opened the bits up and tossed them into a sealed tupperware type of container filled with clean motor oil so they don't instantly rust the first bit of cold weather we have here.

vlad01 wrote:

In-Tech wrote:

Cheers!

Hey, did I sort out the balance I owed you for sending that stuff over?

I recall there was a difference from what I sent vs what the shipping ended up actually costing. Let me know.


Oh, and like I mentioned a while back. I have opened the bits up and tossed them into a sealed tupperware type of container filled with clean motor oil so they don't instantly rust the first bit of cold weather we have here.

Shoot, I think we are square. I dunno, that's beer money so I don't track it. I was just glad it all worked out at end of day