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Test out IRS in the wagon. Sump Crack Sump Part # Bore Cam Pick which one to take the cap off, i think i found a dud
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=veUqwgRx ... e=youtu.be

Spun #6 Bearings Where to from here, not sure, pull the rest off and check how bad those are, thinking not as bad as there's no movement like this one, would need crank ground and oversized bearings? new rods? few beers and Christmas for now

spot a buggered bigend a mile away.i would at least measure the bigend of the rod for roundness they tend to go oval quicksmart when they thump around with a buggered bigend shell.check crank for deep garks in the journal.if it isnt bad a quick polish and measure with a micrometer .then just clean it all up and new rings bearings etc and smash it together

yeh feels fine running your finger over the crank surface, photo up close a polish would smooth all that out i guess and get it balanced while it's out? Im not planning on reving it, but would help with longevity?

you can get away with a couple of score marks around the journal witout issues but any flat spots that may have been hammered into the journal are a concern .even getting one bigend closed and honed is better than junking the whole engine .ide keep a look out for one good rod

ill pull all the top end off after chrissy and have a look at the heads etc check and measure for roundness and post up some more stuff. Thanks

a lot of what's in the crank is probably bearing material, but I agree, all is not lost, as long as everything measures up its probably ok to rebuild!

think on the positive side, if the cranks fucked just buy a stroker kit for it lol

agree biggest concern will be that the rod can be closed and honed
When I rebuilt my engine I had 2 rods that would not come good after 2 atemps
are the rods in the L67 different to the N/A ecotech?

I have heard a few stories about ecotec/L67 cranks failing after been ground undersize. If it's to bad, better of finding another crank from an ecotec.

If you stuck for a rod/piston, I think the user Decicrate on the JC forum may have one or two floating around.

You can probably get that sump welded up as well if you want the extra oil capacity.

trikky73 wrote:agree biggest concern will be that the rod can be closed and honed
When I rebuilt my engine I had 2 rods that would not come good after 2 atemps
are the rods in the L67 different to the N/A ecotech?

totally different. the L67 rods are shorter and heavier than NA. L32 is different again. same length as L67 but forged powered metal and even thicker/heavier again.


the NA engine actually has the best rod ratio. I would just find a good NA engine and do a top swap. you may want different pistons and stronger NA rods if you plan to go wild though, should be fine on mild boost. Oh an piston/wall clearance as well as ring gap will need to be increase in the NA block for boost. One of the reasons why so many people smash pistons in NA engine when boosting them.

immortality wrote:I have heard a few stories about ecotec/L67 cranks failing after been ground undersize. If it's to bad, better of finding another crank from an ecotec.

If you stuck for a rod/piston, I think the user Decicrate on the JC forum may have one or two floating around.

You can probably get that sump welded up as well if you want the extra oil capacity.

I am thinking thats actually got to do with removing the factory hardening when regrinding them. they have tons of meat for regrinding. the journals in the 3.8 are one of biggest in all automotive engines. 60.3mm

If they are reground they should be nitrided as far as I understand, also who know if they are radiusing the journals properly either?

other alternative is to buy new ones from GM in the states. I found a price at 400 or so USD. shipping will be a killer though. There is no new genuine cranks left in oz.