Seems pretty good. I only got about 5 minutes in and my hint is directly related to why I only lasted 5 minutes. The camera on your head seems like a good idea until you move your head. I couldn't watch much because the motion reminds me of being on a boat in 10 metre swell in the Great Australian Bite.vt3.8lt wrote:on an unrelated note ive started a yooutube channel to make some vids for some aussie love on the vt im new to filming and cant talk for shit but its something im working on i htought you guys might like to have a squiz
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8Dd-wX2-FY&t=3s
my ride vt ecotec
Re: my ride vt ecotec
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Re: my ride vt ecotec
Don't like been sea-sick?......
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Re: my ride vt ecotec
vt3.8lt wrote:hey guys gearbox questions again so ive been trying to get some arp flywheel bolts just to be sure they will be up to the task of holding the flywheel on there but havent been successful in finding any i had one workshop tell me the best way to do it would be to drill out the crank and flywheel to take a comon 7/16th bolt from a chev etc as arp make one for it or do you guys think the 8 5/16th bolts will be up to the task?
on an unrelated note ive started a yooutube channel to make some vids for some aussie love on the vt im new to filming and cant talk for shit but its something im working on i htought you guys might like to have a squiz
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8Dd-wX2-FY&t=3s
use genuine TTY bolts, 18-22Nm +73º
Always a good idea to dowel the flywheel using the factory dowel holes in the crank, just as a preventative measure against fretting or sheering in high power applications.
Many have tried ARP bolts on the V6 in the states with hit and miss results, more of the later.
Its not how strong the bolts are in such an application but how consistent and reliable the clamping force is and remains over the life of the parts. All that the bolts are really doing is providing enough clamp to produce ample friction between the mating surfaces to transmit torque and not allow it to overcome the friction and slip.
The bolts only transmit torque if the said surfaces slips and then its bye bye bolts, arp or genuine.
I think the problem is arp bolts aren't going to give as good long term clamp compared to TTY on such small bolts, sort of like having less margin for error with arp since they don't get stretched to the yield point.
If you went to bigger sized bolts, yeah I think it would work well and reliable as it seems to be a proven in the very small numbers it has been done. Only problem I see is bigger means less meat in the crank flange and larger forces involved which in combo tends to distort the seal surface, potentially the rear main journal as seen on some engines where arp flywheel bolt kits are fitted and over torqued.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
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Re: my ride vt ecotec
Very good explanation.vlad01 wrote:vt3.8lt wrote:hey guys gearbox questions again so ive been trying to get some arp flywheel bolts just to be sure they will be up to the task of holding the flywheel on there but havent been successful in finding any i had one workshop tell me the best way to do it would be to drill out the crank and flywheel to take a comon 7/16th bolt from a chev etc as arp make one for it or do you guys think the 8 5/16th bolts will be up to the task?
on an unrelated note ive started a yooutube channel to make some vids for some aussie love on the vt im new to filming and cant talk for shit but its something im working on i htought you guys might like to have a squiz
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8Dd-wX2-FY&t=3s
use genuine TTY bolts, 18-22Nm +73º
Always a good idea to dowel the flywheel using the factory dowel holes in the crank, just as a preventative measure against fretting or sheering in high power applications.
Many have tried ARP bolts on the V6 in the states with hit and miss results, more of the later.
Its not how strong the bolts are in such an application but how consistent and reliable the clamping force is and remains over the life of the parts. All that the bolts are really doing is providing enough clamp to produce ample friction between the mating surfaces to transmit torque and not allow it to overcome the friction and slip.
The bolts only transmit torque if the said surfaces slips and then its bye bye bolts, arp or genuine.
I think the problem is arp bolts aren't going to give as good long term clamp compared to TTY on such small bolts, sort of like having less margin for error with arp since they don't get stretched to the yield point.
If you went to bigger sized bolts, yeah I think it would work well and reliable as it seems to be a proven in the very small numbers it has been done. Only problem I see is bigger means less meat in the crank flange and larger forces involved which in combo tends to distort the seal surface, potentially the rear main journal as seen on some engines where arp flywheel bolt kits are fitted and over torqued.
So why use dowels again? Dowels are used to locate the item accurately. Bolts provide the clamping force. IF the bolts can't maintain that clamping force than the dowels will achieve nothing really as they will not add any strength to the joint.
If you wanted to have the dowels do anything at all you would need to drill the flywheel/flange together and then ream to size to ensure the dowels have a good fit. Anything less and I honestly believe it's a waste of time.
If ARP bolts are torqued correctly than there should be no reason for them to fail. the problem is ARP bolt torque figures are derived from them using their special lubricant. Changing the lubricant or not using it at all will significantly alter the amount of torque required to achieve the correct stretch on said fastener. It may also pay to cycle those bolts a couple of times to ensure they achieve the correct torque load/bolt stretch. I find the ARP catalogue explains all this very well and is a good read.
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Re: my ride vt ecotec
its just in case they do happen to fret or slip as you don't get a 2nd chance. because you have to realize dynamic friction is always lower that static so the pins help the clamping friction to help itself if you know what I mean, it prevents the case of dynamic friction taking place over static.
next time look at the pin diameter and compare them to the bolts, they are a lot bigger.
As for the arp bolts, yes you can use the lube to get the correct torque (as all have tried have done with little succes) but the issue is that lube is the very problem that allows the bolts to come loose in the first place due to the dynamic nature of the v6 rotating assembly, TTY overcome vibration issues and also feature loctite. Some people have had reasonable sucess with loctiting arp with increased torque values but still sometimes still come loose even with red loctite.
The issue all seems to come down to not having enough stretch unlike the genuine items.
There was an article on the very matter I recall either ZZP did or intense racing.
next time look at the pin diameter and compare them to the bolts, they are a lot bigger.
As for the arp bolts, yes you can use the lube to get the correct torque (as all have tried have done with little succes) but the issue is that lube is the very problem that allows the bolts to come loose in the first place due to the dynamic nature of the v6 rotating assembly, TTY overcome vibration issues and also feature loctite. Some people have had reasonable sucess with loctiting arp with increased torque values but still sometimes still come loose even with red loctite.
The issue all seems to come down to not having enough stretch unlike the genuine items.
There was an article on the very matter I recall either ZZP did or intense racing.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: my ride vt ecotec
hmm ok cool thanks for the info vlad you seem to be able to put it in perspective easily the car was auto so i have to drill out the dowel holes in the crank but i cant seem to find any online or from workshops ive called and i dont know what size they are to get some i just had one shop recomend drilling the crank to take a larger bolt but id rather not do that and risk weakening or distorting it i have high tensile bolts in there atm from exeedy that came with the flywheel clutch kit i guess i just need to find some one who has some dowels if i can find out the size etc
The answer is always... boost!
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Re: my ride vt ecotec
yeah that I can't help on. but all cranks despite what people tell you have the dowel holes, so no need to drill but as immorality said you'd have to drill the flywheel and ream in place on the crank for perfect high tolerance fit, which it essential for the dowels to do their job.
I think the only factory engine to actually have the dowels was the ecotec with dual mass flywheel.
I think the only factory engine to actually have the dowels was the ecotec with dual mass flywheel.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: my ride vt ecotec
Long story but no I don't like being sea sickimmortality wrote:Don't like been sea-sick?......

Re: my ride vt ecotec
Yeah i noticed theres a couple of holes in the crank thay look like dowel holes but dont line up with the flywheel holes i thought they may be for ballancing maby
The answer is always... boost!