265 Hemi to efi

[Holden202T]

[Dylan]

Post up your current bin and a log of it. I can have a look over tonight. How far is the car off driving?

[heff0018]

17.01.16 - avg VE tables v111 and rich tune.xdl

17.01.16 - avg VE tables v111 and rich tune.xdl

Post up your current bin and a log of it. I can have a look over tonight. How far is the car off driving?

Thanks Dylan, much appreciated. Its a fair way off driving yet which is frustrating as I would like to get right into it now, at least once the wideband is fixed. Could you also please have at look at the Injector DC % history table - it showing 100 everywhere. Is this the value that should not exceed 80?

Another thing is that I reckon I am having a problem with the alternator and that the battery is drawing down power to run the pump etc. This could be having an effect on the injectors. Cheers

[Dylan]

I had a quick look over the log. The injector duty cycle on the data dash is reading fine that's the one I go by. I made a few changes I've attached the change log, you could also do a compare between the 2 bin's. Added a bit more AE as it was reading rich in a 14.7 cell but going lean once the throttle opened still between 14.7 AFR cell's.

Is the injector data correct for the model you are running?

Done some OCD changes to the VE and spark tables try to keep them smooth once you get the wideband on it.
Turned up the closed loop temp to prevent the BLM making changes while you are as well.

Might be worth closing the butterfly a bit as well it's sitting on 0 idle steps. Also I lowered the idle spark correction it was jumping way to much took it down to 1 degree but increased the idle spark slightly as well.

Good to see you are playing and learning yourself keep it up. This will by no means get it spot on by this update, could possibly be worse. Next time you log and change try using the monitor windows and not use any histograms see how you go.

[heff0018]

I had a quick look over the log. The injector duty cycle on the data dash is reading fine that's the one I go by. I made a few changes I've attached the change log, you could also do a compare between the 2 bin's. Added a bit more AE as it was reading rich in a 14.7 cell but going lean once the throttle opened still between 14.7 AFR cell's.

Awesome, thanks.

Is the injector data correct for the model you are running?

14.2 is what I calculated for a 4.3 lt petrol six cylinder after allowing for the holden fudge factor. Could easily be wrong though.i did try values above and below that but didn't seem to make a great deal of difference, without any wideband readings to go by.

Done some OCD changes to the VE and spark tables try to keep them smooth once you get the wideband on it.
Turned up the closed loop temp to prevent the BLM making changes while you are as well.

Thanks.

Might be worth closing the butterfly a bit as well it's sitting on 0 idle steps.
Yes I did notice that and was going to play around with this next. I manually adjusted the idle screw to make it idle around 750rpm.

Also I lowered the idle spark correction it was jumping way to much took it down to 1 degree but increased the idle spark slightly as well.
Ah, is that whAt was changing the idle spark. I could never match what was showing on the dashboard to what was in the table and now I know why.


Good to see you are playing and learning yourself keep it up. This will by no means get it spot on by this update, could possibly be worse. Next time you log and change try using the monitor windows and not use any histograms see how you go.
Ok will do and thanks again

[Dylan]

With the injector data I was meaning the opening times and the ad on times. What injectors are you running? Be good to have thst righy befor the wideband arries.

Are you running an alternator?

[heff0018]

With the injector data I was meaning the opening times and the ad on times. What injectors are you running? Be good to have thst righy befor the wideband arries.

Thanks Dylan and I hope that wideband controller turns up this week.
I have no idea re the injector opening and ad on times. I haven't got that far into things yet.
I am running these injectors, with a stock VX 3.5 bar fuel regulator.

VT, VX, VY V6
0 280 155 777 (EV6)
21.44 LB/HR 219.85 CC/MIN 162 G/MIN 12 Ohm 3.5bar OP

Are you running an alternator?

Yes, but I need to check it out as the battery voltage is always low and I need to keep putting it on the charger as the connection to Tuner pro quits when the voltage gets to a certain point. The problem may simply relate to the fact that it does not get enough revs with what I am doing, and/or the alternator is a bit old. I do know it puts out 13. something volts out the back of the alternator but I can remember if it was low 13's or high 13's. Cheers

[Dylan]

Nothing wrong with running the late model injectors especially with the 3.5 bar fuel reg it's a good set up.

It would be well worth your time setting up the opening times and the ad on times. They could be copied from a VX tune. BUT I've been told by The1 there's a 0.5ms delay built into the late model code. So best to look into that first as the values shown in the VX tunes may need manipulating when copying into 12P.
Have a search around see hat you find feel free to come back with any questions.
Best to do this now before you start setting the VE table. Injector timing is very critical and often over looked.

[heff0018]

Thanks Dylan

Are these the tables you are referring to ?

Injector - Injector Bias vs Battery Voltage
Injector - Injector bias add-on vs Injector Pulse width

[Holden202T]

thats them, the one v's battery voltage could be the one giving you the most greif, if your alternator isn't working 100% and you get low voltage then it will change the injectors opening time, this table is to help offset that by opening the injector longer to make up for the lower voltage, so you can see if its wrong it can easily make a tune rich or lean ....

probably hard to do much with it without the wideband, but you can get the info from the tune your injectors corespond to and that will be a good start, then you can normally get the AFR where you want it at idle, then un plug the alternator so the voltage drops, and see if its still at the same AFR, if its not you can then fine tune till it is....