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not yet, too dry and dusty of late. car gets covered in fine dust just after a 10 min run. I dont think thats good for the engine lol

vlad01 wrote:superpro all round except nolthane front bar links

Hey vlad,

I need new front bar links and am intrigued by your decision to go superpro all round but use nolathane for the front bar links.

Why?

Thanks.

well, i had super pro ones before but their shape makes them not articulate very well. Makes for very hesitant full lock steering and eventually the bushes splitting from the stress.

The nolthane ones are shaped (the upper ones) like little UFOs with a central stubby spigot which locks into the hole in the strut. The UFO shape allows them to roll around and articulate much like a ball joint, yet be very firm in the vertical direction so effectively transmitting sway bar loads.

Hope that explains it, anyway I have had them for nearly 2 years on the VP run around car and probably 50-70,000km and still perfect. Proof is in the pudding.


I have a feeling super pro didn't use this design as its probably patented by noalthane, however superpro used the same sort of design on the rear ones so it I used them on the rear with great results.

I have some good news to report.

After fitting Mace CAI, I noticed it was considerably quicker.

To be sure I did a log and found I drop a whole half sec of 0-100 despite having traction issue as the extra power got me by surprise (can see in the log me trying to regain traction ) This has been the biggest single jump in power since I started tuning it. I honestly did not expect much. money well spent and a good lesson that stock air box is just horrific if it can't even supply a stock 3.8.

Also you can see my restriction almost gone.

Interestingly and I have no idea why, but the lean spikes on AE are gone after the CAI lol, I did increase AE multiplier table but few logs before the CAI showed a value of 0.45 from 1600? up did improve it but still a way to go. As soon as the CAI went on the AE seems to be spot on with that value.

I havn't used the new ADX yet as I wanted to see the difference with and without the mods. Now that I know it works I can switch to the new ADX and have the map values scale to the baro correctly.

some pics of the CAI install. Was a huge PITA! nothing fit and had to mod it quite a bit to make it fit. Biggest drama was the hole in the lid for the washer bottle was more than half its diameter out. I spend like 4 or 5 hours carefully trimming the enclosure to fit the radiator neck as its not standard, resetting the and modding the position of the washer bottle to tilt the neck as far left as possible. Trimming mounting holes to move the enclosure right and trimming the lid to get an acceptable alignment of the washer bottle.

In hind sight I should of got a blank lid like my original plans with VR bottom section. Anyway, its done and fits well. If it wasn't a VR it wouldn't have the washer bottle and fitting would be easy.

I used foam pads under the mounting points to stop fretting of the paint.

clearancing the radiator, was pretty straight forward.

Nice result

You can use the new adx with any existing log, no new data from the ecu its just doing some modifying to create a new term for baro correction. The xdf also uses the new term for bubble tracing fuel tables.

For others reading, the 12p zip will be updated soon if it all works OK for vlad01.

I reckon with a good launch and bit more refining I can get into the 7 sec range in 0-100.

8.15 was that run a lot better than just over 9 sec when I got the fueling done. I think it was around 10 sec when I very first got it on the road.

I wonder what it will be like at closer to sea level?

Anyone would be able to help me with a dyno tune place I can take it?

I think its ready to go for one and get the spark finally done properly.

Mace kindly sent me a blank lid for my own placment of the hole.

Heaps better! everything nice and relaxed fit, washer bottle no longer cocked and shimmed and sitting in the center.

Also got a uni filter much better construction and quality over the saas one that came with the kit.

Old vs new underneath.
Perfect fit now!

Time for an update!

Biggvl was kind enough to not only lend me his dyno but also teach me how to set it up and operate it in exchange of tuning one of his cutomer's cars and teaching the ins and outs of delco tuning.


I borrowed the ignition map from my VP's tune done by greenfoam. It was an excellent map so I copied that over and calculated a drop of 5% to adjust for the higher CR.

Turned out to be very close to spot on, made some very minor tweaks to WOT area and gained a 3-4hp there. Then I did steady state tuning and played with blocks of 4 cells at a time and monitored the torque. It was very very close. I just backed off the timing slightly here and there and gained few Nm literally, 1-3 Nm so it was just a tad over MBT in some areas but majority was spot on.

here is the last few runs. most impressed with the torque curve. So much torque at the bottom end at such low rpm.

I have no idea how it gets the torque figures, we did not enter any info about which gear, ratio of diff and gears so I dont know how it gets those numbers. Perhaps we can look at that next time. Main thing is seeing the curve and how it makes the HP and where.


how does the car drive? fantastic! snappy as! its like being a learner driver all over again and is jerky trying to get used to the very sensitiveness throttle response lol

here is the spark map after the dyno.

Some other things I noted is the engine temps reduced and no longer cycled the fan as much, exhaust temps dropped a heap. 5 min after shutting the engine off on the dyno the extractors were close to ambient temps. The whole engine bay was a lot cooler too.

I also had a knock box hooked up. Unfortunately there is no mounting place on the block for pre ecotec so I mounted the sensor to the thread hole at the bottom of the rear of the heads so there was more valve train noise to listen to. Damn engine is noisy as! just off idle around cruise area there was definite knock like sound but after dropping the timing 20º I concluded it was mechanical noise that sounded exactly like knock. There was quite a lot of areas in the operating rage than had knock sounding sporadic noises but did not change with much less timing, even less than stock.

important thing was there was none of that at full noise, well there was a tad when I upped the timing past 28º but I backed of to 27º or there about and it disappeared. It was very very subtle when it did happen anyway. not sure it it was knock or not or just. kinda like a faint background buzzing sound, didn't sound like it to me but just to be safe I backed off to the previous run, power did not change so I was happy.

This has been a huge but exciting learning curve for me and also for Biggvl. Big thanks for giving me this opportunity once again mate

Free to use is my tune down at the bottom. Its not 100% complete but 99% there.

good results playing on a dyno is good, everyone has to do it at least once in their life, makes tuning timing especially so much easier!

when I tuned the V6 sprintcar I was noticing the same thing with bulk torque even from 1600rpm and it didn't drop below 200 till just over 5000rpm (they rev them to 6000rpm with free flowing exhausts) that was the most surprising thing for me, it made so much torque from just off idle to 5000 .... probably explains why they are such a good motor!

im interested to know, did you add much timing at 1600rpm area ? I found on methanol at least this motor took another 9 degrees of timing to make max torque around that area, and torque jumped about 40nm over stock timing!!