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I think I will just back up the CAL via Flashtool in future

A bin file has 2 sections. It has the calibration (cal) and also the operating system which is the code that runs the PCM.

Tunerpro is designed to edit the whole lot, which we call the bin. In reality though we never edit the operating system only the cal.

VL400 and Myself introduced the concept of a cal as an optimisation. I made 'cal area only' the default in OSEPlugin, and VL400 added the support for cal files in the delco flashtool.

In tunerpro when useing oseplugin with the default 'cal area only' selected it will omit the operating system when you click upload or download. It will then save a bin, where the operating system part is blank. This is fine to keep a copy of your tune, but no good to burn to an eprom/eeprom/memcal to use outright.

When you use the delco flashtool and choose 'upload cal' and pick a larger bin file, it will work fine and will only upload the cal portion. So you dont need to worry about this.

All you do need to worry about is either turning off 'cal area only' then clicking download, OR clicking 'get bin' in the delco flashtool when you want to save a permanent copy to a new chip.

If you have a bin which is missing the operating system or a smaller cal file from the flashtool and you want to turn it back in to something you can write to a memcal, first get the ECM running with the right operating system (what cal is on it doesnt matter) then either load the bin in tunerpro and click upload (which will send the cal portion only) OR do a write cal in the delco flashtool (pick either a cal or a bin from disk) to upload the cal part. Now your ecm has the matching cal and operating system.

To download a full bin use "get bin" in the delco flashtool or use tunerpro+oseplugin and turn off 'cal area only' then choose download and save to .bin.

You'll notice that a download takes longer for the full bin. Once your sorted you might want to swap it back to cal area only for the speed advantage.

The cal area only option is on the oseplugin configuration page.

Thanks Antus, that is a great summary which has cleared up a lot of unknowns.

Got another problem now. I reckon one of the injectors might have crapped itself or I have a wiring fault. After fixing the bin and getting the correct tune back I start the motor and its misfiring or at least running badly. Also I noticed fuel bubbling out past the third cylinder exhaust manfiold flange. I thought it might be an airleak making it run crap so I tightened up all the manifold bolts which had loosened a bit after the new gasket was installed. Restarted and still the same, then I noticed fuel had been spitting out past the narrow band sensor, which I had just nipped up by hand and had covered the engine bay. I stopped and checked the plugs and found something very interesting, the no 3 plug looked like it had been cleaned with high pressure fuel, it was shiny. The no 2 & 4 plug was black. Is it possible the no 3 injector is just ON, not pulsing. I was going to check a bit further but I couldn't get it to restart. If I can get it going again how would I check to see if its a wiring problem? I can get replacement injectors from Upulit for about $8 if that's the problem. cheers

pull the fuel rail out with all the injectors attached, prime the pump and see if that one sprays without turning over the engine. if it does, that indicates a possible stuck injector. You can then up plug the power from it and check again and that will isolate if its got power stuck on or its the injector itself.

Thanks Vlad, pulled the rail and primed the pump and no fuel was released

This is the no 3 cylinder plug


I will try changing over injector wiring plug 3 with no 2 and see what happens. And maybe also try swapping injectors and see if either of these options cleans the plug.

Id swap out all the plugs too, often when plugs have been that wet, they wont recover without getting them glowing hot, if you cant get the engine to run well enough to get this done the problem will only get worse...


Oh, might be a great idea to have an extinguisher at the ready when messing with fuel

Ok. Yes I always have an extinguisher next to the car just in case.

Biggvl wrote:Id swap out all the plugs too, often when plugs have been that wet, they wont recover without getting them glowing hot, if you cant get the engine to run well enough to get this done the problem will only get worse...

I would agree 100% with the above after seeing your plugs. Put a new set in and you will probably be back to where you were before. You need to get this car on the road. Too much time idling when the engine is cold often fowls plugs. Especially when you have not got the tune correct.

Is the memcal corrupt and forcing it into limp home mode?

Simon