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Hi all, its been a while so I thought I'd put up a few pics of what been happening.




The fuel gauge would only show from half full to full. From this pic you can see why. Rather than forking $150 odd like I did on the CL for a rebuilt sender I bought a replacement resistor from Hemi Performance. pretty simple to install and works perfectly. Hardest bit was soldering the tiny wire to the positive post which took many goes with a pair of needle nosed pliers but I finally got it.


I was never overly happy about my temporary fuel setup due to safety reasons so finally decided to put together a proper one. I bought some 1/2" aluminium fuel tube and replicated the curve of the stock pick up, drilled a hole through the cover and JBwelded it in. I drilled it as an interference fit so the JB weld pretty much just seals it. I am running an external fuel filter as the pipe comes out of the tank. The stock pick up is now the fuel return.

Did you fit a swirl pot inside the tank?

No would have been a good addition though. it was hard enough getting the new sender assembly in without cutting a hole in the tank.

I have setup my conversions by using the original pickup in std size to a low pressure lift pump (Pierburg) then off to a surge tank which then feeds the main high pressure EFI pump. That way I don't get any fuel surging at the main pump. You can buy a nice intank conversion from Rocket Industries.

I was originally going to use a surge tank and still have the tank and a lift pump. I just dont know how all the plumbing is going to end up after the turbo is installed and I am also installing an Astra electric power steering pump which needs to fit somewhere. Once all this is in I will see if I have a spot left for the surge tank in the engine bay

G'day all, had a win today. Recently I installed ARP head studs, a rebuilt head with which had the valves deshrouded which also lowered the compression, new valves, hardened seats etc, etc in readiness for the turbo install. I also bought some MSD leads which I had to make up and MSD coil. However ever since the new head went on the motor was had been missing at idle. I checked and adjusted changed over injectors, replaced plugs, did plenty of head scratching and then in the middle of last night I realised about the only thing I hadn't rechecked was the initial 10 degree timing. I had been adjusting the advance in TunerPro but not checking the advance with a timing light. Anyway i'll be stuffed, put the module into diagnostic mode and the timing was set at 0 degrees.?? WTF the dizzy was locked down hard how did the timing shift?

Anyway a pic of the engine bay in its current state.

I believe diagnostic mode overrides the program to the basic starting point. Did it fix your misfiring?

Ha, yes I failed to mention the outcome. Yes it did.

I found an interesting thing about the manifold while testing the injectors. You can disconnect the number 3 injector wiring and it has no noticeable affect to the idle and I assume this is due to the batch firing and scavenging fuel from the adjacent runners (number 3 & 4 are quite short runners), however if you pull the wiring from injector 4 it starts missing. I changed the no 3 injector wires to both cylinder 2 and 4 and they worked fine so the no 3 injector wiring is ok. This is why I originally changed injectors as I thought I had a dud injector on the no 3 cylinder.

Try holding the revs up at say 2000rpm and repeat the test removing injector plugs. This helps to eliminate some of those funny things that sometimes occur with manifold design.

Thanks, hadn't thought of that. Will do