Enhanced Mod Custom Tunes

[Wade]

adx with knock all cyldinders

[Ape_With_ALDL]

Thanks so much Wade I really appreciate it, I knew I was missing something

[Wade]

well that seems to have done the job. Ape_With_ALDL sent me log. would of been nice to get a longer log but still looks good so far. Here's both a Flash based vx-vy ecotec l67 top swap auto and manual base files for anyone needing something to start with.

[Ape_With_ALDL]

Yep It got me home Thanks Ill get some more longer logs today for You guys

[Ape_With_ALDL]

Sorry guys Ive been sick my cars harmonic balancer is out of balance, so I cant do to much but, Ill be uploading logs and bins when the car is running right- Thanks

[Lkskwlkr]

Hi all,

I have built a series 2 ecotec 3.8 top swap and put is in an LN106 Hilux. Having never touched a 3.8 before(or any tuning at all), doing the top swap build was an interesting learning curve. Built it fairly stock as it does not need to be a super powerhouse and also built on a very limited budget. Ok so ill do my best to cut a long story short as i could get talking about the details for days.

So, engine is in and running. was originally on a memcal pcm and harness but due to some electrical gremlin, i have changed over to a VX flash pcm and harness. It is running reasonably well all things considered but i could definitely use some assistance/info/advice from someone with more tuning experience to help get the tune to a reasonable sort of running and engine safe state. I will start fresh now with this tune file:
VX-VY_V6_$060A_Enhanced_Manual_v1.0a L67 SC top swap.bin (thanks Wade for the upload)
I will be using the XDF and ADX from The1's enhanced files VX VY_V6_$060A_Enhanced_v2.09a. I have learned just enough to be dangerous in the tuning department. I have done memcal erasing and flashing, built test bench cables for flash and memcal pcms, bench flashing and in car flashing of full bins and CAL only flash and am now further tumbling down the tuning rabbit hole doing the L67 tune on a flash pcm.

Ok so here is some details:

series2 ecotec top swap with fresh rings, bearings, vavle grind and stem seals, mild porting, extractors, SC bearings etc etc.....
2.25" single cat exhaust
dual O2 sensors
Egr delete
Manual R150F land cruiser transmission(reasonably strong)
VX flash pcm and loom
380cc injectors
stock pulley
wired in a 3bar MAP sensor to the EGR plug
stock MAF
No VATS or BCM
China spec external fuel pump
probably more i should list but ya get the idea

Now is there any way to get it running reasonably well with reasonable performance and reliability (No stalling) without having a vehicle speed signal to send to the pcm? How critical for features and functionality is VSS? it is possible for me to change out the speedo drive to a 3pin electronic type but that means that i sacrifice my dash speedo as its old school cable drive. No real big deal though and if a VSS is essential for good running conditions then it gets priority. Is there any way to work around it though??? Also what changes need to be made to the tune in order for the MAP sensor to be active in sensing boost in real time?? will i also need a wideband O2 sensor or are the standard rich/lean sensors sufficient?? Are there specific parameters that need to be changed as a manual (obviously the manual flag)? Other settings that need to be modified or zeroed out that will affect running conditions like A/C pressure sensors, power steering pressure??

I have had a thorough look through the enhances bin files and am almost overwhelmed by the amount of tuning options it is possible to modify, though as i get more comfortable and do more research i am beginning to make sense of some it. There is probably a stack of them that i can skip over though i imagine that are related to automatic transmission, traction control, EGR, pollution purge etc. Is that correct to just leave them as is or do i need to modify all of them so that they wont affect the tune?
What is absolutely critical? what is an absolute DO NOT TOUCH?
If anyone feels like sharing their wealth of knowledge or even wants to make some changes to the tune that are necessary, i would be eternally grateful and would look forward to the day that i have the chance to pay it forward to another aspiring EFI master in the making.

Love the open forum and sharing of tech knowledge here on PCMhacking.net So often i must drag myself away from it. Keep up the great work everyone. Its AWESOME!

[Rhysk94]

Needs a custom dyno tune.

[Muncie]

Have you got the MAP sensor working yet? i've got an ADX i can send you so you can see boost on your Dashboard and logging for 3bar.

Rhys is correct you need to really get it on a dyno under controlled conditions so you dont hurt bearings or butt up piston rings and rip tops off your pistons.

I'm on my 3rd engine........ learned lots but its cost more than a dyno tune.

[Lkskwlkr]

dyno tune???? bloody kill joys. lolz where is the fun in that?? its not getting put on the dyno. There certainly may be a few out there somewhere that may do a reasonable job at dyno tuning. They must be a very rare breed though. As far as i am concerned what i am trying to achieve here is not anywhere near a scenario that would need to even look at a dyno. This is not any sort of unusual or high performance build. I am 1000% certain that i am not the first individual to use a flash pcm on a pretty much stock Top Swap or L67. I am not some Muppet with a fist full of cash to throw at someone looking to make an easy earn by putting it on rollers, opening a laptop, and using some fancy words, only to deliver something that is not far different from where it currently sits or deliver some sort of amateur and reckless tune with wide open torque management and a $2000 invoice that comes with a poorly formatted printout, and a very limited life expectancy and an expectation to not hold them accountable for f*cking it right up!!

So yeah, if it was a performance build with unusual customisation specs and a desire to squeeze more from less, then sure take my money and deliver its worth. That is not the case in this situation. I am not a dippy twat and am absolutely certain that even if there is not even one of my questions that anyone can or will shortcut me and share their knowledge, I will locate, learn and apply the necessary logic required to then rescind my prior queries and celebrate my totally unassisted success of achieveing a reasonably safe, powerful and reliable tune on something that has been done a million times before using an engine and tech that is 25 years old and on the cusp of being deemed obsolete anyway. Doing it all without chanting or waving my wand too!!!

And I promise you that, at the right time and place it will pull like it just discovered its rod, as i smirk wryly and full send it past the pussies that don't!! Not my first rodeo fellas, but thanks for the cautionary words. Anyone else who has read this far and does not find sand in their vag sometimes delivered through my direct (possibly abrasive) manner, if you are able to share some fact or speculation with regards to my questions, particularly about tuning without a speed sensor (can/can but wayyy too much effort), throw it at me. We might all stand to benefit from it, or, pay it forward to another with a curious desire for knowledge.

Thanks all.

Peace out!

[Lkskwlkr]

Muncie, I would appreciate the adx file you mentioned. Yes the MAP sensor is operational though I believe that it does not just need to be a passive logger only. over in the states a map is standard on an l67 and it makes sense to actively apply the boost numbers in a tune as the amount of air going in is kind of important when calculating AFR in any EFI engine. Would you agree? best results achieved with a wideband o2 sensor to allow for fine incremental adjustments as oposed to the more primitive rich/lean binary o2 info that is holden standard. logical in my mind though well aware that results are achieved many varying ways and sometimes without any obvious path of logic. its there, its just hiding.