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yeah and you would want a flexi/tc combo to actually be heavier than a flywheel and clutch setup due to the insides of the tc weighing weight but not actually attached to the crank directly

well it is a pretty small converter compared to the old one!

not sure on weights though.

time to strap some cement bags to the TC then!

delcowizzid wrote:nah its harmonics for sure LOL.it gets worse the more power per hole.ide be interested at how much the TC and flexplate weigh didnt the counterweighted crank come with 10.5kg flywheel if its much less than that ide be looking to add weight back into the rear

10.5kg wheel was the std red motor wheel, the blue/black motors used a 8.6kg wheel, which was the same as the GTR XU1.
I've rattled the odd wheel or 2 loose, after fitting an ATI Super Damper it appears to be Ok, Pro-Race also make a damper that will fit without modification. http://www.pro-race.com/holden.htm Romac also make a balancer, but they aren't as good as they used to be.
In my experience I've found that holding the revs near 6000 for to long eg.in the burnout, seems to keep it in the "bad" revs & rattle it, if you pass through this band it appears to be Ok.

im currently using a powerbond race balancer, and according to their website its 4lbs, and stock one is 3.6lbs .... but it also says stock red is the same wieghts ? either way that pro-race one is a fair bit heavier!

the thing that makes me wonder if its this or not is that i have not changed anything and never had these issues before.

also the balancer i have has a small lip machined into the front of it for my pulleys so would make any change not a 10 minute job! actually just looking at it, its alot longer so would throw everything out of whack .....

if the flywheel loosens more weight rear less on the front its a balancing act you can move the flex up and down the crank front to rear

maybe you jsut forgot to tighten the flywheel bolts? my mate left a socket on his pressure plate bolt in his patrol once... sounded like a machine gun went off when he started it up... looked like it too when he opened up the bellhousing again

On trucks they supply new clutches with bolts that hold the pressure plate off until you've bolted it altogether one of the guys asked me if he had to remove them and I said yes without looking at the clutch at all and he undid the straps that hold the pressure plate in place put it all back together did a test run in it 20km worth all ok gave it to the customer and it shat its self 5m out the door pressure plate went AWOL

yeah i did wonder if they were never tight enough or forgot to loctite them or something Jayme, like i said, i've never had this issue before, and i've used this converter before and i've had the motor and flexplate in for a while, maybe its just its time

Ok all done and piss heads have gone home

So flex plate bolts have no thread lock on them at all and look like they never have, maybe I've just always done the converter bolts and that's it!

So will get some new arp ones and loctite them and see how we go!

Main cap and rod bearings look same as when they went in (second hand) so looks like no issues there and cyl 4 looks ok (removed piston to check rings cause that cylinder was lowest on comp test)

So plan is arp bolts and gasket kit and try again!!!!