Re: 14point7 SLC OEM - budget wb02 controller
Posted: Thu Feb 09, 2012 1:23 pm
antus: user error maybe? Assume you're running the latest firmware and NAW_7S Edit versions?
I just had a look at the NAW_7S forum on the 14point7 site, they look pretty flexable in what you can configure, compared to the SLC OEM where you can't really change anything apart from the calibration settings.
The SLC OEM has two jumpers for it's calibration - the first is a hardware calibration (performed without the sensor connected) that sets the board's calibration value based on an internal voltage reference reading, the second jumper is for free air calibration of the sensor.
The hardware calibration only needs to be performed once after building the EvK (best to do it after the controller has been running for 30 minutes so the components are up to their normal operating temperature) or if you replace key components on the board you'll need to re-calibrate then too.
The free air calibration requires the sensor to be removed from the exhaust, which I guess would be the same for any WB free air calibration.
The procedure for both calibrations is pretty simple with the OEM EvK - from memory you just power the unit up with the relevent jumper in place (only 1 calibration at a time obviously), wait 5 seconds, measure the voltage on the linear output pin (go/no go thresholds are in the instructions) then remove the jumper and reboot.
I just had a look at the NAW_7S forum on the 14point7 site, they look pretty flexable in what you can configure, compared to the SLC OEM where you can't really change anything apart from the calibration settings.
The SLC OEM has two jumpers for it's calibration - the first is a hardware calibration (performed without the sensor connected) that sets the board's calibration value based on an internal voltage reference reading, the second jumper is for free air calibration of the sensor.
The hardware calibration only needs to be performed once after building the EvK (best to do it after the controller has been running for 30 minutes so the components are up to their normal operating temperature) or if you replace key components on the board you'll need to re-calibrate then too.
The free air calibration requires the sensor to be removed from the exhaust, which I guess would be the same for any WB free air calibration.
The procedure for both calibrations is pretty simple with the OEM EvK - from memory you just power the unit up with the relevent jumper in place (only 1 calibration at a time obviously), wait 5 seconds, measure the voltage on the linear output pin (go/no go thresholds are in the instructions) then remove the jumper and reboot.