Vlad's rides thread
- vlad01
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Replaced the O2 sensor today with a new genuine unit as the fuel economy started to take a dive over the last year and got really bad. I ruled out everything else and decided for 40 bucks for a NOS genuine unit why not.
So old 140,000Km unit out and I am sure this is why the economy was bad. Sensor looks very bad but surprisingly no CEL.
Can anyone tell me what contamination makes them a bright rusty red?
I opened it up to confirm the ceramic sensor element inside and it was redish too and the outer later fell off at the slightest breeze. The platinum layers also feel off at the slightest touch and was basically missing inside the cavity. Again I don't know how it was still working.
My economy went from average 8.3-9.5L/100 to no better than 11.4 and more around the 12 mark.
So old 140,000Km unit out and I am sure this is why the economy was bad. Sensor looks very bad but surprisingly no CEL.
Can anyone tell me what contamination makes them a bright rusty red?
I opened it up to confirm the ceramic sensor element inside and it was redish too and the outer later fell off at the slightest breeze. The platinum layers also feel off at the slightest touch and was basically missing inside the cavity. Again I don't know how it was still working.
My economy went from average 8.3-9.5L/100 to no better than 11.4 and more around the 12 mark.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Red coolant?
- vlad01
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Although the intake gaskets were stuffed and recently replaced (was drinking about 0.5 to 1L per week of coolant for almost a year), it was the shit Peak brand green coolant and in the last 8 months or so it's been the Tectaloy inhibitor with 9 parts water. Also green.
According to google, coolant contamination looks like patchy black and white glaze looking stuff. Not much out there saying what the red is, but a few sites say lead poisoning.
It's looking better judging by the gauge today but not like before, hard to say as I did a few Ks on the old sensor since the last fill and more local hilly driving while on the old sensor.
It would get about 280-320km on the half mark originally. Before I changed the sensor I would be lucky to get 180, more often 160 on the half. Not quite half yet but over 220 so far.
Btw, half on the gauge would almost always be 27L on fill up.
According to google, coolant contamination looks like patchy black and white glaze looking stuff. Not much out there saying what the red is, but a few sites say lead poisoning.
It's looking better judging by the gauge today but not like before, hard to say as I did a few Ks on the old sensor since the last fill and more local hilly driving while on the old sensor.
It would get about 280-320km on the half mark originally. Before I changed the sensor I would be lucky to get 180, more often 160 on the half. Not quite half yet but over 220 so far.
Btw, half on the gauge would almost always be 27L on fill up.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Its not really a contaminant, but sometimes the bright red colour can come from nitration created during combustion. If you hook up an emissions analyser, the water trap will be full of red coloured water. The piston skirts can go red, and the oil can be red as well.
- vlad01
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Interesting. The plugs were also that colour last year when I checked them.
I think I fixed it. Got 9.8L/100Km today with 75K of that on the old sensor and also all the STFT and LTFT relearning in the mix. Highway and city mixed and few floggings too.
I can't even recall the last time I got sub 10L/100. Certainly not this year.
A new clean run from full and few times will give me a better indication but looks like that was the issue.
I think I fixed it. Got 9.8L/100Km today with 75K of that on the old sensor and also all the STFT and LTFT relearning in the mix. Highway and city mixed and few floggings too.
I can't even recall the last time I got sub 10L/100. Certainly not this year.
A new clean run from full and few times will give me a better indication but looks like that was the issue.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
I do vaguely remember the old O2 sensors in our old VS looking the same, it had bad intake gaskets but I had run red coolant in it before going to the green shit. Always thought it was from the red coolant.
Gotta be happy with the improved economy.
Gotta be happy with the improved economy.
- vlad01
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Yes I am, hopefully new rear tyres should help further, rear ones are completely stuffed and down to that very soft last layer they have.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
- vlad01
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VR II executive - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Anyone know the torque specs for the VN-VP v6 3/8 rocker bolts? My manuals only have the newer 5/16 bolt specs.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
From the VN Series Service Manual Vol. 3 : "Rocker arm pivot bolt toque specification: 32-44Nm."
It also asks for Loctite 243 to threads.
No mention of bolt size, but my edition is August '88, so assume 3/8.
Amazing build thread by the way.
It also asks for Loctite 243 to threads.
No mention of bolt size, but my edition is August '88, so assume 3/8.
Amazing build thread by the way.
- vlad01
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- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:41 pm
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VP I executive
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VR II executive - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Thanks for the specs, appreciate it. Found someone on JC forum state 55-65 Nm but knew it was bs like everything else on that forum, sounded way too high for 3/8th.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.