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yeah my dads had a mc millan for as long as i can remember being able to walk and im 32 now!

most air tools and spray guns etc want 12 or more cfm, but i don't think thats FAD ...

vlad01 wrote:actual OEM roof lining material, exactly the same as what Holden used.

got all my fabrics and vinyls from vyfab.

for me seats................>

http://www.vyfab.com/catalogue/product/velour-1/

"VP Executive steel blue" is the one for the seats the car had so it made finding it easy.

Google is your friend.

Website looks a bit broken, but will give them a call.

Any idea on cost for roof lining fabric? What do they call it?

Thanks

something like 15 or 20 buks a meter I think? get 3 or 3.5m to be safe. you might need to specify the car, they should know but there is a few different types and colors so you might need to send a sample or take a good pic for them.

you will also need a cheap spray gun with biggest nossle, I used 2mm or 2.5mmI think and the TAC adhesives brush 205 and the TAC adhesives thinner to thin it down for spraying. Do not brush it on, you'll stuff it up as it will soak through the foam and it drys too fast to apply the fabric.

You can buy the spray on from TAC adhesives but its only in 20L drums hence the brush on stuff and thinners. you will need bit over a L so get the 2L tin. about $25

Vyfab sell this glue, its made in Dandenong and is the best contact adhesive you can buy, 10 fold better than any selley's crap or common glues bought from a hardware store and cheaper. Plus its designed for high temps up to 130ºC perfect for roof lining.

google them for the specs.


Even coat on the fabric and cardboard, let it dry til tacky and lay the fabric hanging over the cardboard, work it down nice and gently from one end to the other.


you must clean the cardboard super clean. most people say use petrol to get the old foam and glue off. I used a damp but not wet sponge and a swirling action to remove the dead foam and loose glue.


nope that helps.

Holden202T wrote:yeah my dads had a mc millan for as long as i can remember being able to walk and im 32 now!

most air tools and spray guns etc want 12 or more cfm, but i don't think thats FAD ...

yeah that would be more the pump CFM, they always advertise the larger number. the model I am getting is AR16 which is 16CFM on the pump, but actual output at the valve is 12.3. its a 3Hp twin cyl alloy pump. Should be good I recon. Not cheap though, bit over a k. But when I buy stuff I always try to invest for life not for the moment like everyone else does lol.


now back to the car. I did the inner door belts. was a real PITA to get the glue off where the felt weather strips where re glued on many times.

But once the solvents, scraping, brushing and numerous washings I finally painted them with vinyl dye. I can't recomend the VHT vinyl dye enough, trully amazing product when prep is done right. The solvents in it actually melt plastics and vinyls so the pigment becomes part of it. I have done 80% of my interior with it so far and its magic. its very durable. Did my other car on some bits and tones of use and 4 years later its still part of the plastic.


I have a question about the wiring loom, how do you remove the contacts from the plugs that go into the ECU? I know already to remove the plastic clip thing that goes in the back, but how to get the individual contacts/wires out?

I am wanting to pinch the purge solenoid wire from the VY loom and add it to the VP one.

Also any suggestions for the O2 heater supply?

i use small enough oxy welding wire or a jewellers screw driver, whatever fits snuggly in the hole .... its the larger hole, normally i'll push the pin from the back while inserting the screwdriver, then once the screwdriver is in you have to push it towards the side the clip goes to, then pull the wire out from the back.

get a torch in the plug to see how the clip goes from one side to the other, the side that has the metal on it is the side you have to push towards i think from memory.

if you can get one out and have a good look at it you'll be able to see better how it works and after a few you'll be way better at it

when i did o2 heater in mine i used the power supply to the injectors or coil i think.

There is some good info here: http://www.dynamicefi.com/RePinHowTo.php I found a toothpic had just the right dimensions to work properly.

yeah thats about the same as the oxy welding wire i use

Holden202T wrote:i use small enough oxy welding wire or a jewellers screw driver, whatever fits snuggly in the hole .... its the larger hole, normally i'll push the pin from the back while inserting the screwdriver, then once the screwdriver is in you have to push it towards the side the clip goes to, then pull the wire out from the back.

get a torch in the plug to see how the clip goes from one side to the other, the side that has the metal on it is the side you have to push towards i think from memory.

if you can get one out and have a good look at it you'll be able to see better how it works and after a few you'll be way better at it

when i did o2 heater in mine i used the power supply to the injectors or coil i think.

yeah I did that too for my O2 but since I will be using a wide band, shouldn't the supply be switched only when the engine is running?

Another thing, why is there 2 ground points on the wiring loom, isn't it better to have one common ground point for everything?


I will try what you suggested for the contacts and try a pin or some wire to pick it out.

oh i didn't realise you were referring to a wideband, you can power that from anywhere you can find power .... some people actually put ciggie lighter plugs on them and put it in that way.

wide band only necisary for the tuning right? once its done do you install a regular O2?

or is it better to keep the wide band on all the time?