pcmhacking.net

at the end of the day you cant say any timing is right or wrong across the board, simply having ported heads could be enough to get more air in there and change the required timing ....

people seem to get so hung up on you "must" have a certain number!

yeah obviously you dont want to have 2 degrees advance but if its making max torque its the right number for that combo.

the fact that its making really good torque till over 5000rpm is pretty spot on for something you want to drive on the street!

i remember tuning the v6 sprintcar, it needed like 7 degrees more at 1600rpm to make max torque, then it was flat 250Nm till about 5000rpm where it just got to 200 .... and it had a dip in the WOT timing curve, right or wrong that was the sweet spot for that motor!

Thats exactly it!

Been a while since I did anything on the car. I finally got the new boot lid back home and fitted it.

Today's task is to fit all these badges to the boot. Hard to imagine there is a cheap cars worth of value in these badges alone, scary seeing what they sell for now.

looks awesome mate, whats left to do now?

Just to finish off the tune and get the AC gassed. Won't be doing anything until at least spring. So wet and muddy atm I nearly got a few of our cars bogged in front of the shed, wheels spinning on the spot idling kind of bogged

That car looks an absolute gem. It's a credit to you for detail and finish.

Not a whole lot to report on but I finally got the AC gassed and that is all working well. Have been making some adjustments to the tune in regards to cold start up. A minor flat spot, seems to be a cold AE deficiency for the first 30 sec or so. Maybe the AE is not active until a certain time after start?

Also when really cold around 10 c or so after the idle dies down after start up there is a certain point it just suddenly stalls, no probs when around 20c and up so going to see if its fueling or idle speed related. The fun of small LSA cams

One thing I have improved on is I was logging an intake restriction. Was getting a 10Kpa drop over the rev range and I had clues to the Mace CAI box itself. I took the lid off and saw a considerable reduction in 0-100 times going from average 6.8 sec down to about 6 flat from an idling start at 95Kpa barometric. With a bit of practice and closer to sea level I should get somewhere around 5.7-5.8. Pretty pleased to finally have worked out why the feel of the car didn't quite meet what the dyno said. The opening above the headlight is completely blocked off by the bonnet being closed, so there is that. It would be interesting to re-dyno it to see but end of the day its how is drives.

Going to cut the right side of the box open, currently there is only a gap of 1.5 fingers wide from the side of the box and the rad support to the air in the engine bay. Looking at opening that right up to maybe 50mm top to bottom. Even if it taking in hot air, it's better than restricted cold air

Interesting.

How does the Mace compare to stock airboxes?

I've heard peeps rave about them but some say they found it restrictive at dragstrip.Only one to back it up was dude with 6 litre vs.

Well its better than the stock air box for sure but once the engine is worked it starts to limit it as well.

Honestly I think the best option is just a straight pod in the engine bay. The loss of air density from having no CAI is marginal at best, a good trade off for having actual unrestricted flow.