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They do custom ones so I could just get them to alter their SBC ones a bit to suit and make a set with 2 pairs with LS link bars for those 2 pairs with 1.77" centers. Anyway I will worry about is when the time comes.

Check out Johnson Hylift, not the same company as Johnson and have some really good lifters.

Interesting how they changed the thread size, its mentioned in the included paper. New gears left, some old 3.08 ones right for comparison.

Well I managed to get a new nut to suit but its way too wide to fit into the diff flange. The flanged part of the nut is quite wide while the nut itself is 30mm. It is 42mm at the flange while the original one is 36mm. Good news is after machining it to 36mm it will fit inside and a 30mm socket can still reach deep enough to do it up.


In other news I finally managed to find suitable solid roller lifter. I should of checked with them in the fist place but turns out TA performance has them specifically made for the Buick v6 and v8.

The only issue I see is the bore spacing will be the older 1.56" and will require them to make sets with 1.77" tie bars to suit ecotec and the 2 pairs of 1.77" in pre-eco as well, they have 4 pairs at the 1.56" and 2 at 1.77". I have contacted them regarding custom sets with longer tie bars and will post an updates once I know.

http://www.taperformance.com/proddetail ... 1413%2DSTK

Unrelated but anyone watch the SpaceX launch and docking of the Dragon to the ISS?

I heard the presenters mention a simulator for the docking.

https://iss-sim.spacex.com/

So I thought I'd give it a shot, nailed it the first shot great fun!

Just 10m out with all balls.

I watched until they were on board the station and did there little video call at around 530am was pretty cool

The diff rebuild kit I got to do my M80 came with 2 new nuts of different sizes.

I watched the launch yersterday but missed the docking this morning. Been out and about on the roads early the last few days.

It was pretty sweet for sure.

As for the diff nuts, turns out I bought the wrong one that was stated in the instructions. The nuts flange was too big to fit in the diff flange. Turned out to be another part number to suit the same M22 but with small flange to suit older M75 so I got that and it fits now.


Also regarding the lifters, Crower are useless. They said not at this stage and then just ignore you.

So I have been dealing with an agent for Johnson lifters, same buick expert I talked to few years back and from my measurements they should just work but close call. They are slightly un-shrouded so it gets to 2.7mm of the oil galley on my cam of choice based on the stock base circle, though my cam will have a smaller circle so it will be better than 2.7mm.
They can also do the custom tie bars no problem. So the plan is to get one pair as a sample to double check the measurements before going ahead with everything.


Here is a pic of the measurements. Oval is the oil galley, 11mm wide and the bottom edge is 18.5mm from the base circle. The small rectangle is the lift distance traveled by the shroud upper edge from 0 lift to full lift relative to the gallery, in my case 328 thou lobe lift.
That clears by 2.7mm so it shouldn't bleed much oil, and the oil gallery is exposed to the lifter collar by 3.68mm at a min which also should be enough oil supply, will be more with the smaller base circle.

I am confirming with Clive cams the base circle size for that cam profile and will report back once I know and have calculated the true values.

Decided to finally mod (some more) the mace CAI to fix the restriction once and for all and finally be able to put the lid back on.

I chopped off the driver side corner of the box to make a gap for air to get in. When I rev it I feel a surprising amount of air blast though that gap now which is a good sign.

Previously it was struggling to get air through all the small gaps everywhere and was sucking the lid in and getting the lid jammed under the rad support top edge, I wondered why the lid was doing that but I know why now.



There is a few other things I want to sort out.

There is a leak when I wash the car above the HVAC and I'm pretty sure its a leak through the AC pipe grommet as the fit wasn't that great with the aftermarket evap core. So I plan to take the cowl cover off and remove the wiper mechanism to get access and will apply some butyl mastic around the grommet. I should of done that when I was installing it

Last thing I would like to do is change the rear springs to standard and do away with the extra thick insulators that is compensating the height. The thing is it's running FE2 springs but becasue of the k-mac top up front they add about 15mm to the height effectively making it standard again so you end up with the front higher than the rear if you use the same type of springs. I'm pretty happy with the height so I figured I might as well make the rear standard so it's done correctly.

Last thing is I want to add another pair of spacers to the rear sway bar mounts as they had issues clearing the diff. One lot was enough to just clear it but it literally just scrapes by so another spacer will give it 5mm.


There is always little things to fine tune with any build so might as well do them.

Tried every possible point, AC pipes, fan resistor cover, the air intake for the fan itself, under the glass, the plenum joints/seals with high pressure water even and now I can't replicate the leak whatsoever

Yet if I washed the car and washed the soap off the cowl cover I would get a leak above the tunnel behind the hvac. It seems to point to the AC pipe grommet as I know it didn't fit properly with the new evap core, but why is it not leaking now?

I would be pissed if I put it together and it started leaking again