pcmhacking.net

Well I never found the leak so it all went back together.

I'm going to get centreline suspension to sort out the front end, install the next lower springs and reinstall the stock rear insulators. Also they will reconfigure the front tops to allow more camber and less caster, camber is maxed out and pretty much 0 which is no good, need at least a deg or 2 negative as I am shredding the outside of the tyres atm and if I push it hard enough I get some under steer, all indicative of not enough negative camber.

Spoke to Clive cams and they reckon the Johnoson lifters with work find so I am going to order a sample part to double check. Apparently the FH cam specs I got are different to the ones Clive have so they are going to email me the correct specs.

The specs I have are 308 adv, 258 @050. Clive said 298 adv, 260 @050. So it's similar but more aggressive ramp rate and area under curve is larger, so it should make same peak HP but better area under HP and T and behave better at idle , 10 less overlap.

That must be a crazy ramp rate we have 298 seat to seat 222@0.050 on our v6 touring car grind you going for big rpm with 260 degrees at 50

Ramp rate is 3.37 Between mild and medium according to dynosim. Not that aggressive becasue the lift is relatively low compared to other cams with same durations which normally run 650 lift. This one is only 546 lift

Cam specs attached.

Decided to do a bit of maintenance on the old shitbox daily.

The tails lights were badly faded so I got some of that VHT nite-shades spray can.

Now it's actually red

Good as new! and way cheaper than new taillights, the going price which is 1200+ for new ones or few 100 for used, more than I paid for the car
Sometimes I wish I had a VN instead, the part availability and prices are way better than VP

The economy seemed to be shit recently. Checked the tyre pressure, no wonder. 22psi front and 12psi rear.

And it's probably only a few of years since you last checked them. Bugger that air just seeps out. I bet it also steers and brakes a little better now. That spray works a treat. Have to remember what it is.

I checked them in March and they were fine. For some reason tyres seem to go down many times faster in winter than they do in summer.

I'd be lucky to add more than 3-4 psi every 4-6 months during the hotter months. Usually more than 10psi in winter for the same period. Rear tyres are new so they went down even more than normal.

I put 36 front and 34 rear, I found that to be the max before they start to wear unevenly. On my other VP with the R888R tyres which are a track compound and even lower profile I run 40 front and 38 rear about the same as my VR with 45? profile.

I always check my tyres when they look flat except my race car when I take it out. Too many cars and getting lazy.

That's what prompt me to check, the rear were looking a little low but was not expecting that low.

So I ended up buying a mint low K VP series 2 to replace my tired and flogged out daily shitbox.

The body is dead straight with excellent paint, nice and shiny. Interior is very clean and near new. 124k on the clock.

It has factory optioned cruise control and electric antenna. Even has the original wheels and hub caps.


Problems that need addressing.

The usual VP defective heater core.
Electric antenna mechanism seems to be detached inside the guard so need to take the liner out and have a look.
Odometer stopped working just before I got home so I have ordered new gears for it.
Left sun visor clip is the wrong colour so stealing the correct one from the shitbox. Done.
Boot lock doesn't open by cable when there is load on it, I have a spare lock I can use or buy a NOS one for about 60 bucks. Done.
Boot garnish is cracked but not sure if I will worry about it. Done.
Had mudflaps but are missing so might chuck on a set of VS ones I have, not correct but I'd prefer mudflaps than nothing. I do have VR ones with the correct logos.



But the most exciting bit is my list of mods, can't have it stock if I am going to drive it every day.


Have new stock strut tops installed, super pro bushes all round except the rear lower control arms as they aren't necessary to change. New decent shockers. FE2 spec sway bars and nolathane front link kit.
VT front brakes and master/booster upgrade.
Pacemaker headers and redback cat back 2.5" system with both mufflers.
Mace CAI box plus my mods to it.
Stage 1 cam (basically same spec as VN S1 stock cam) for a bit more beans but still get good economy.
Replace valve springs with new stock ones, LS lifters and new genuine timing chain and tensioner, crow cams push rods and collets. Idea is to stay stock as possible and long lasting valve train but improve performance a little.
ZZP oil relief spring kit for little extra oil pressure.
New gaskets for the timing cover, sump and intake.
New hoses and radiator and also brass intake bypass fitting, new heater tap.
Delete bellmouth.

The auto will get rebuilt as I never had one last past 200k.
Basically built stronger and better frictions, servo, bushes, reaction shell etc.
Stage 2 shift kit
Higher stall converter but I am not sure on what rpm to choose, thinking 2200 rpm?
Large stand alone trans cooler, PWR one I think.

That's all I can think of at this stage

Oh and better tyres, it's got brand new super cats on there and I know how shit they are. I like the Maxxis HP5 tyres, the best non racing road tyre in 15" I have used so far. Usually the 15" sizes are only available in a cheap compound for most brands and don't grip.

really nice unit there V sack.
you forgot heater core.