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Thanks to vs ss I now have a fully functioning driver door. Opened it up, de-greased it and re-greased it again and made sure it was all working correctly.

Turns out my original driver lock was in a sad state. Not only very stiff and jamming up, the lever that actuator moves was missing the moulded plastic on it making for excessive play which is why it never fully opened or closed properly.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HXCBEj5xxqM[/youtube]



Got the door back together nicely and it works great now. Can manually open/close as well as with the remote. key barrel now also opens and closes and deadlock works too.

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JqP6GmVO-mE[/youtube]






Only thing I noticed was a rubber limiting bumper inside both the new and old driver lock. All 3 left front and rear were missing it so I never knew it was meant to be there. So had a look as what happens without it. Basically the angle of the actuator lever becomes the limit and stresses the grommet, explains why the passenger actuator grommet was a little torn.

So at some stage I should open the passenger one up again and install a rubber bumper. I have one from the old driver one and will have to check if the VS one I got which is the wrong type has one for the rear that I need to do. I have an excuse to do the front passenger one, turns out someone re-glued the window rails and they are crooked so the window clunks when opened. When I get another glass I can fix the missing rubber in the lock. Pain in the ass but I learned something new.

Nice! Glad it all worked out for you. Looks like it works well after the special cleaning touch.

Yep! All that dusty old dried up grease makes them a bit harder to move. Freshening it all up makes a difference.

Slowly slowly, the car is getting sorted.

After I get the doors sorted I will do the quarter windows to stop the boot filling with water, then keep an eye on the tail lights to see if they still get condensation in them. I don't know if they are leaking or if it's condensation from the water in the boot.

If the lights are leaking I am going to have to fit aftermarket VN lights as I bought the last pair of VP ones when I did my red VP few years back, been NLA ever since.

Holmart have NOS VP lights

https://www.holmart.com.au/surplus-stoc ... -vp-vr-vs/

Wouldn't touch a NOS tail light after what happen to my last pair I bought.

Well, damn... driver door actuator is playing up now I knew I should of transferred my one over to the lock. But I think I will just put one of the new ones in when they arrive.

Started opening/closing really slow and then fast again and now sometimes doesn't even attempt to do anything and also sometimes won't register a manual open/close so the other doors do nothing.



Anyway


I got these in the letter box this morning, 5 min to change all the seat belt buckles, really easy!


Also got these from the same mob, Global Trim, Haven't fitted them yet. Will do that only after I am sure the locks are working correctly.

NOS means new old stock so they can't be any worse quality than what the car came with. That listing though does say one peice has been glued back in haha

You talking about the tail lights? yeah the factory VP ones were shocking quality new. They leaked from the factory from what I was told. VN ones seemed to fair better from my experience and the aftermarket ones are excellent. Never had an issue other than fading on the cheap no name brand ones but thats after 5 years of full sun living outside so not bad really.

The aftermarket VN ones are the really good TYC ones. I hadn't seen a TYC VP one in 15 years, only those cheaper AP ones which have been NLA since 2017.

Opened up the driver door again and put the original actuator back with the new lock. Seems to work fine now. But I am leaving the trims off for a while so I can test them in a variety of temperatures.


Also found a front left glass with the correct Pilkington logo in the shed. So now I have an excuse to open the left/front again to install that missing rubber bumper on the lock. The glass rails have been glued on with sikaflex and are crooked so the rails hit the reg and make a clunk sound when winding the window down.

I will do that door last.

Opened up the left/rear and found it to be butchered


Some lazy asshole didn't want to take the 1 min to take the lock out to replace the actuator and just drilled access holes for the screws. Not only that but chopped the plug off and fitted a shit aftermarket actuator that doesn't have the strength to open/close most of the time.

Lucky my nephew was just at the wreckers picking up a new VP/VN engine for this Hilux at the time I found this so I got him to get me a harness for that door where I can replace the plug.