Ants delco twin cam gemini
- antus
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- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
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Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
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- antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:34 pm
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
- antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:34 pm
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
<deleted as image host replaced the content with something else>
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
- Holden202T
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Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
the pics don't do this car justice, i got to see it in the flesh on saturday and its a mint looking car, very straight panels ![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
![Smile :)](./images/smilies/icon_e_smile.gif)
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower! ![turbo :turbo:](./images/smilies/TurboSmiley.gif)
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
![turbo :turbo:](./images/smilies/TurboSmiley.gif)
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
- antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:34 pm
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
yeah, when i put its race shoes on it suddenly looks a lot more bogan than with the stockie hub caps it normally rolls with ![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
is that a set of grandpa louvers I can see on the back window ![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/icon_lol.gif)
- Holden202T
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Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
it sure is ![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower! ![turbo :turbo:](./images/smilies/TurboSmiley.gif)
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
![turbo :turbo:](./images/smilies/TurboSmiley.gif)
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
- antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 8253
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:34 pm
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B - Contact:
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
Wow no updates for 10 years, where does the time go?
Probably because after my mates bachelors party, on the way home the ignition exploded and I was stranded. Thus began a years long saga to get this car fixed. I was probably waiting for it to be all good to post lol.
So first of all I replaced the reluctor module as it had been destroyed. No joy. Then I replaced the reluctor itself with a crappy tridon after market unit. Pretty sure that was DOA. Then I decided to give up on distributor and swap over to dis.
This is I did, and it worked for a while. I used a trigger wheel from a mates G150 bellett project, which I re-drilled the trigger wheel by hand to fit the G200W.
After driving it around for a year or two, I needed to park it up for a year and did that. When it came out of storage it started fine and I drove home and 3/4 through the journey it started missing above about 3k RPM. It got me home, though. Next day it would not start at all, and the next phase of the saga began.
The recurring problems were either no start at all, or false trigger where the logs showed an impossible for this car 7K+ RPM so obviously false triggers.
I made another trigger wheel, same problems.
I also found intermittent electrical circuits in the loom. Believing it was a loom problem my mates helped me build a whole new engine EFI loom. Still no joy. Then I pulled the dash out and got stuck in to the body loom and replaced the fuse box which was getting sus, removed the immobiliser, found some other dodgy and intermittent wiring / connectors, lost my tacho at some stage and ended up replacing all the factory body loom connectors, tracing and labeling every wire and connection between the ignition, body loom, and efi loom. Ended up still same fault.
I tried a couple of different ABS sensors (which I was using as reluctor triggers), only one would run the car, and badly. I tried some different crank angle sensors from different cars from the wreckers with different mounts, different spacing. Tried different ignition modules. Every now and then I'd change something and it'd run, then the next day it wouldn't. This would have been because of the state of the body loom previously.
I took the ignition modules to my mates place who is running an '808 with 12P on his Bellett. All of my modules worked perfect on his car, so that ruled the modules out.
So, eventually I had a look at the trigger signal on my car on a scope, and I noticed a 0.25v wobble at low rpm and a theory hit me about the trigger being slightly off centre. When I replaced the trigger I put the two triggers together and copied the mounting holes from the first one to the next, thus if it was off centre, I would have copied the error. Perhaps there was bees dick of movement in the original one, and that is what caused it to start failing after working ok for a while.
So began a journey to learn CAD to build another one. I learnt Fusion 360 from an online course, only to find at the end of the course that they say "oh, and you cant export as DXF or DWG, you can google for a solution" which was exactly the vector formats my local laser cutter needed. The product would only output crappy raster formats. Raster back to vector turned out to be a no go. There may have been solutions for Fusion 360 in the past but they are closed now. So I tried solidworks. This was a bit better, but I still didn't have the skills. Each go I learnt a bit more about CAD in general. Then I found I have an educational license for all autocad products, so I went back to Fusion 360 only to find it wouldn't activate. I messed around by autodesks educational support for a couple of weeks, and eventually gave up on that. I tried autodesk inventor, no joy, back to autocad itself.. long story short I eventually got the skills figured out to make trigger wheels and get them laser cut.
So, along with some mates projects this happened yesterday:
which tonight turned in to this:
and I finally turned the key and got a nice start and a smooth idle. I gave it some revs and no false triggers up to red line!
Ive been burnt so many times I still sort of expect it not to start tomorrow, but honestly I think I had multiple wiring / connector problems in that 48 year old loom, plus it turns out hand drilling trigger wheels may not be the best option. What a journey and finally a good outcome. Now to put the rest of the car back together and finally can get out there and drive it again!
Probably because after my mates bachelors party, on the way home the ignition exploded and I was stranded. Thus began a years long saga to get this car fixed. I was probably waiting for it to be all good to post lol.
So first of all I replaced the reluctor module as it had been destroyed. No joy. Then I replaced the reluctor itself with a crappy tridon after market unit. Pretty sure that was DOA. Then I decided to give up on distributor and swap over to dis.
This is I did, and it worked for a while. I used a trigger wheel from a mates G150 bellett project, which I re-drilled the trigger wheel by hand to fit the G200W.
After driving it around for a year or two, I needed to park it up for a year and did that. When it came out of storage it started fine and I drove home and 3/4 through the journey it started missing above about 3k RPM. It got me home, though. Next day it would not start at all, and the next phase of the saga began.
The recurring problems were either no start at all, or false trigger where the logs showed an impossible for this car 7K+ RPM so obviously false triggers.
I made another trigger wheel, same problems.
I also found intermittent electrical circuits in the loom. Believing it was a loom problem my mates helped me build a whole new engine EFI loom. Still no joy. Then I pulled the dash out and got stuck in to the body loom and replaced the fuse box which was getting sus, removed the immobiliser, found some other dodgy and intermittent wiring / connectors, lost my tacho at some stage and ended up replacing all the factory body loom connectors, tracing and labeling every wire and connection between the ignition, body loom, and efi loom. Ended up still same fault.
I tried a couple of different ABS sensors (which I was using as reluctor triggers), only one would run the car, and badly. I tried some different crank angle sensors from different cars from the wreckers with different mounts, different spacing. Tried different ignition modules. Every now and then I'd change something and it'd run, then the next day it wouldn't. This would have been because of the state of the body loom previously.
I took the ignition modules to my mates place who is running an '808 with 12P on his Bellett. All of my modules worked perfect on his car, so that ruled the modules out.
So, eventually I had a look at the trigger signal on my car on a scope, and I noticed a 0.25v wobble at low rpm and a theory hit me about the trigger being slightly off centre. When I replaced the trigger I put the two triggers together and copied the mounting holes from the first one to the next, thus if it was off centre, I would have copied the error. Perhaps there was bees dick of movement in the original one, and that is what caused it to start failing after working ok for a while.
So began a journey to learn CAD to build another one. I learnt Fusion 360 from an online course, only to find at the end of the course that they say "oh, and you cant export as DXF or DWG, you can google for a solution" which was exactly the vector formats my local laser cutter needed. The product would only output crappy raster formats. Raster back to vector turned out to be a no go. There may have been solutions for Fusion 360 in the past but they are closed now. So I tried solidworks. This was a bit better, but I still didn't have the skills. Each go I learnt a bit more about CAD in general. Then I found I have an educational license for all autocad products, so I went back to Fusion 360 only to find it wouldn't activate. I messed around by autodesks educational support for a couple of weeks, and eventually gave up on that. I tried autodesk inventor, no joy, back to autocad itself.. long story short I eventually got the skills figured out to make trigger wheels and get them laser cut.
So, along with some mates projects this happened yesterday:
which tonight turned in to this:
and I finally turned the key and got a nice start and a smooth idle. I gave it some revs and no false triggers up to red line!
Ive been burnt so many times I still sort of expect it not to start tomorrow, but honestly I think I had multiple wiring / connector problems in that 48 year old loom, plus it turns out hand drilling trigger wheels may not be the best option. What a journey and finally a good outcome. Now to put the rest of the car back together and finally can get out there and drive it again!
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Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
- vlad01
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Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
I use Corel draw for my sort of CAD drawings and wing most of it as I never learned to use it off anything other than experimenting. I find it 10 times easier than Adobe.
At work the Zund cutters have their own front end software with an editor that has basic cad stuff but is not a design software. We sell Engview which is a very powerful CAD for packaging mainly but can do much more.
None of these are 3D CADs, but it doesn't matter for me as I only ever make brackets and things. I have 0 3D skills outside of some only game level design stuff for games 20+ years old haha.
I tried AutoCad and Solidworks years ago and I couldn't make anything lol.
At work the Zund cutters have their own front end software with an editor that has basic cad stuff but is not a design software. We sell Engview which is a very powerful CAD for packaging mainly but can do much more.
None of these are 3D CADs, but it doesn't matter for me as I only ever make brackets and things. I have 0 3D skills outside of some only game level design stuff for games 20+ years old haha.
I tried AutoCad and Solidworks years ago and I couldn't make anything lol.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Ants delco twin cam gemini
Awesome!
I have MicroStation and AutoCAD, fairly fluent in both, I prefer AutoCAD.
Been fortunate enough to have done some pretty incredible things with CAD and CNC ...
-Enjoy
I have MicroStation and AutoCAD, fairly fluent in both, I prefer AutoCAD.
Been fortunate enough to have done some pretty incredible things with CAD and CNC ...
-Enjoy
Intelligence is in the details!
It is easier not to learn bad habits, then it is to break them!
If I was here to win a popularity contest, their would be no point, so I wouldn't be here!
It is easier not to learn bad habits, then it is to break them!
If I was here to win a popularity contest, their would be no point, so I wouldn't be here!