pcmhacking.net

I recently put worked heads on my vp v6 motor, and it was running funny , I got it diagnosed and turned out it was code 23 and code 25
manifold air temp sensor saying it was high and low voltage and it was driven for awhile so I thought it might of been abit dodgey so I change the mat sensor and turned out that was screwed and put a new one in and now its flashing that its too high in voltage

plus I thought lets see how it drives
I took it for a spin and put a full tank of 98 cause it had shitty fuel in it from like months ago,changed the injectors,fuel filter and put fuel cleaner in and it ran much better and light didn't come on

after 10 minutes later it came on and when I tapped on the throttle abit it started jerking like it didn't wanna go and didn't over heat nothing so im not sure whats wrong with it

I know it needs a tune but I cant get a hold of one cause antus hasn't reply to any of my messages

the car is a vp v6 manual
has a mild wade reground cam in it just abit bigger than standard
heads ported,shaved quite abit not sure,double row springs,1.7 rockers
81c degree themo
65mm throttle body with removed belmouth
msd coil packs
9mm leads
ls1 injectors
Super6 OTR

still running a standard manual computer till I get it tuned or if anyone can help me tune it
located in geelong

Try this guy,

Geelong - www.bpracing.com.au

Yep. Its a MAP based system so its calculating airflow by measuring the air pressure in the head. Because you've ported the head and because you've changed the cam, the amount of air entering the cylinder at the same amount of pressure is very different. The injectors are also a different flow rate, so the amount of fuel going in is wildly different from what the computer is intending. The tune is out far enough that error codes are going off. You are correct, you need a tune. Even if you fixed enough stuff the error light doesnt come on, you would still benefit a lot from a tune.

I don't think those changes will make it run that bad.

biggvl and I ran standard BLDC tune on the Gemini with way more work on heads, cam and 11:1 comp. Ran ok for a base tune.

Like we were discussing before I think its a problem in the ignition system, its breaking down under load with almost certainty how you described it.

also check the plugs, are they sooty and black? or are they ok?

Sounds like common problem with the msd coil packs heard go many bad things about them.
Check out yellow bullet coils. Well priced as well.

yer im not sure man but I think it could be the msds too cause at one stage it came up with EST mode and that's most likely the msds there so im thinking of putting standard ones in cause it keeps flashing on my laptop on and off but then again once I drive it the light doesn't come on and then 5 minutes later it flashs on and then 2 mintures later off and then same thing since I changed the ecu but not sure what it could be

anyone in geelong area if you want to come look at it and see then yer pm and check it out its sooo weird and since the ls1 injectors its blowing black smoke I know cause its blowing rich and it always has since the heads

thing I don't get theres another chick down this way that has a basically fully worked motor,twin throttle bodies,bigger intake,cam,ported heads,injectors and etc but factory tune goes soooo hard but mines goes not as hard as it when it was stock

EST means the computer is handling the Electronic Spark Timing. Once over 400 rpm it should stay in EST mode. If it doesnt your getting a flat 10 degrees timing. This would explain lack of power. If it doesnt stay in EST mode then its a DFI or DFI wiring issue which could be caused by a bad coil causing electrical interference.

yer it just keeps flashing on and off antus

so im guessing it a wiring issue somewhere ive got a another loom I might just put in and hope for the best but not sure other wise ill just wait till the tuning gear is delivered

Dfi module or the dodgy msds stock coils are more than capable we making 450rwhp on factory coils lol