pcmhacking.net

Thanks for the info ill look into it!

Hi all

I have been sorting out some radiator problems over the holidays. Seems like the heat from the bigger turbo has overwhelmed the stock radiator but I had a aluminium one lying around that was the right size and configuration. I also needed to relocate the power steering pump so that I could offset the radiator to one side and allow enough room to get a proper cold air intake setup happening.

Found a Camry over flow tank with factory mounts fitted nicely. $12 from Upullit.
Its going to be real hot in Adelaide soon so will be able to test it under extreme conditions.

nice and out of the way!

The tank might get toasted by the turbo but are cheap to replace

Still not 100% happy with the radiator so I have shoehorned an even bigger unit from a CL into it. The current aluminium one is fine at cruise where the temp sits at around 80 degrees, it’s also ok in heavy traffic stopping And starting but if I pull up and stop at idle it hits 100 degrees in about 5 minutes. It’s 39 degrees tomorrow so will be good test conditions

Nothing beats copper and brass radiators for cooling and get a shroud on it so the fan works instead of paddling air around in a circle

That was something I wasn’t sure about re copper vs aluminium. Another bonus of using the later model CL radiator is that is comes with a factory shroud. I reckon if I persevered with the aluminium setup and modified a shroud to suit the smaller radiator it would have improved the overheating at idle problem. It’s just I know with my old CL charger Which had the same radiator setup I could idle for long periods without any overheating. The difference is of course the turbo.

I don't think there's much between alloy and copper. Yes copper is better but is it that much better. Where did you get that fan. It doesn't look like a Valiant one to me. Why not put a couple of thermo fans on and set the temp to say 85 deg.

alloy is usually a lot better as the limiting factor is the solder on copper ones where as the alloy ones are all alloy, even the brazing is aluminium . The solder has a far worse thermal transfer than aluminium , about 1/4 of the rate iirc. So the solder joints on the fins are the bottle neck, also brass is worse than aluminium too. This is why copper rads are 50-100% thicker than alloy ones for the same cooling capacity.

This can be verified here.


https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ther ... d_858.html