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oldn64 wrote: The major tip....TRUE all your electriconic devices off so you do not have distraction. I will put "elevator music" on in the background just so I am not working in silence. AD/DC or Metalica dont help concentration

I couldn’t survive I concentrate way better with a bit of black album or ride the lightning playing or razors edge drives me nuts without music playing in the workshop even worse when it’s bad music but then again that might just be me

MetallicA

Started putting the motor back together. The new pistons and ARP tod bolts are being fitted and rods resized at the machine shop and will be ready next week. I blocked down the deck with 360 wet and dry, cleaned off all the gasket surfaces and washed down the block with a ton of brake cleaner and then blew it over with compressed air to get rid of any debris. I cleaned up the bores with brake cleaner on rags until it came clean. Must have gone through at least a dozen rags I reckon until it came up properly clean.

Looking Good heff0018,

I would have waited until the rods came back to clean the cylinders as the air will flash on the clean metal. It is a step you would generally do during the assembly not before hand. Grab yourself some wb40 and drown the cylinders in it so that it does not flash any further. While it is at the micro level I have seen the flash do some strange things to new rings before. Just take the precaution now.

It might be a shadow but how are the cam bearings. There is at least one I would be checking closely with the photo you have supplied. If you can find another bolt which is used for your main caps then I would also cut a slot in it and chase these so that the threads are clear and clean.

Looking great though. keep it up

cheers
oldn64

I don't like that brass oil pressure fitting hanging out the side of block. With vibrations they have a habit of shearing off usually in the block and at a time when your having fun and you end up stuck in the middle of no where.

oldn64 wrote:Looking Good heff0018,

I would have waited until the rods came back to clean the cylinders as the air will flash on the clean metal. It is a step you would generally do during the assembly not before hand.

It might be a shadow but how are the cam bearings. There is at least one I would be checking closely with the photo you have supplied. If you can find another bolt which is used for your main caps then I would also cut a slot in it and chase these so that the threads are clear and clean.

Looking great though. keep it up

cheers
oldn64

Thanks

The cylinders are still coated with power steering fluid.

I have chased the threads with my slotted bolt tool, thanks for the tool hint.

I will have a closer look At the cam bearings but I think that are ok.

I have finished installing and wiring the electric power steering and all works well with no leaks and I am rewiring for the 140 amp alternator.

I will post some pics soon and get back to the motor next weekend.

Cheers

This is my modified Astra steering pump mounting bracket and hopefully it should clear the alternator. It has been wired up using 6mm cable to an Astra distribution block which I will also use to run power to the headlights once I install the relays and also the power amp.

What is it with this silver wire cable like what the Astra runs, I couldn’t solder it. I had a blow torch on it and it wouldn’t take the solder it just ran off

Cheers

Keen to hear how the pump works put been thinking about installing one myself

All good so far, The install was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. There is one brown wire that is unused at the moment and I Hope it is for some type of variable pressure regulator which can be controlled by a table and the speed sensor.

heff0018 wrote:What is it with this silver wire cable like what the Astra runs, I couldn’t solder it. I had a blow torch on it and it wouldn’t take the solder it just ran off

Cheers

Yes that is correct Heff0018. Often this is coated or is a none copper or tin wire. This means like paint you either need to etch it or use some really good flux to then be able to tin the cable. Generally you are far better off using proper crimp connectors to physically join your harnesses together (and no I am not talking the cheap bullet connectors or the crappy scotchlocs.) It comes down to reliability.

Bracket looks very well executed and should hold the pump nicely. Are you planning on using a rubber mount or dynamat for your vibration dampening?

looks great so far.

cheers
oldn64