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v6bucket wrote:I did notice that the volts appear low, the alternator has a large pulley on to slow it down a bit, it was bending the fan blades at high speed, I think I calculated something close to 20000rpm at 7500 engine rpm. I will investigate, I think the alt. is only a 35 or 40 amp unit, the voltage at the battery is ok, will check the connections that feed the ecu, might have to fit a bigger one.

If you are running the original alternator then yes you will need to change it as it will be a 35A version. The bonus here is a VN alternator will almost bolt on. Depends on the version of your housing as to whether the VN will just slot in. If not and it is a bosch then you can change the guts of the 90A VN one into the older housing and get the upgrade that way. The other trick is I believe a Magna housing (from a mid to late 80's Magna) has an offset housing which can be used as well. This is what I used on the EH when I had it to actually get a 200A alternator into her. While the 200A was a brand new alt I needed to change the housing to make it fit and align properly.

Regardless the way you go, you will need to remove the front pulley and put it on the replacement, as most of the newer bigger alternators are a serp belt not a v belt.

Cheers
oldn64

yeah we run a vn alternator on the brothers 202, just need to change the front pulley from serpentine to V and its pretty much perfect and like 85 amps!

I've been busy getting ready for the 6 Banger Nats, so I'm sorry for not replying to the last posts.
The low voltage was 46 year old wiring, the alternator is charging ok, so I fitted another relay & now have more volts to the ecu.
In short the car went well on the dyno, making 245 rwhp & running a bit lean in the top end, so probably should've been a little more. My fuel tank is coated with a KBS coating product & some has lifted off partially blocking the fuel pump inlet strainer, which I found after I got home.
The car went well at the 6 Bangers, the clutch is slipping a bit, it might be time to up the clamp pressure a bit or talk the clutch man into making a slipper clutch for me.
Question time. What sort of timing should I be using for throttle off sections in the timing table?

You are the first person I’ve heard of that has had an issue with kbs, I’ve used it on at least a hundred tanks and never had an issue

Biggvl wrote:You are the first person I’ve heard of that has had an issue with kbs, I’ve used it on at least a hundred tanks and never had an issue

I brazed 2 fittings at the top of the tank, it may have had some flux on it still & a piece has flaked off, the rest of the tank is fine.

I connected my logger to the Torana ecu before racing last Sunday. Whilst checking the logs I notice that I'm getting some Spark retard in some places when at WOT, not sure what is pulling the timing back. The Wideband is reading about 1.2 leaner in the log compared to the LM-1, so don't freak out if it shows lean at WOT. Remember there's no injectors being controlled.

is it just me or is everyones showing up like a 2 bar map sensor ?

The .adx that I've logged with may be a 2 bar one.

To alter the ADX so that it has a 1 bar MAP, just change the "Range High" figure from 200.00 to 100.00, in the ADX editor, correct? The car is parked up for the next month, so I'm unable to check it until I get back from our 3 weeks on the road.