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So been working on proto type cas disc and this is what i have come up with. I printed one out on cardboard and cutout slots. Its a bit rough but i think it will do the job for a trial run.

From what i have tested on bench the hall effect crank sensor (delco setup) and the optical sensor of the ( rb cas) output is inverted.tested using a 5v pullup . I think this will screw things up. Does the delco must run internal pullups . how important is this ? I could invert my disc to fix this ....

Anyway this is the fun of getting it to work !!!

Also when testing the ( rbcas ) found that the beams do not work in the same plane. so i think i will have to rotate inner ring to get correct timing

Use the original rb cas wheel to get the degree of separation between the two beams.

Gampy wrote:Use the original rb cas wheel to get the degree of separation between the two beams.

Yeah could do that.

I might also have an issue with the (rbcas) putting it on the scope I can see that the inner beam will stay hi or lo as expected with the blocking or unblocking of the sensor, But the outer beam will only momentarally go hi to lo does not stay at a fixed state. Is this normal or is the cas faulty? Does someone know ? TIA

Hmm update I think I killed the cas.... Got nothing out of it now ....

i respect your dedication to cutting out all those slots!

looks like a good job for a 3D printer!

Holden202T wrote:i respect your dedication to cutting out all those slots!

looks like a good job for a 3D printer!

You know it wasn’t as bad as it looks . I don’t have a 3d printer but I did ask someone who does odd jobs with one . he said it might not be strong/stiff enough at the thickness I wanted so I went with the cardboard. I think it will do the job for now.

3d printing it is a great idea, especially if you have low cost access to a 3d printer.

How thin do you want it ??
And can it be thicker on the inside of the beam region (i.e. in the center of the disc) ??

I do agree what you have going is a suitable proof of concept prototype though ...

I would just get it laser cut from thin steel once you work out the design.

OK, So have been working on my bench setup and have had it working and sending data on all sensors etc. I am also wanting to get the ignition side working as well. I am trying to build and CAS simulator with an Arduino Uno. Have had some great help from David Andruczyk Author of Ardustim who did the 18x 3x V6 pattern for me. It did work if only for a few seconds and I got spark and injectors fired . I will Attach a picture of the circuit that was used(very rough drawing) The UNO would shutdown and need a power reset to start working again after a few sparks from coil pack. Unfortunately (long story short) I have killed a UNO in the process of getting it to work, and not wanting to kill another I am asking for advice/help from someone who has done this .
Next plan was to use optocouplers instead of the transistors to isolate the coilpack from the UNO.

I have searched google for anyone doing the same thing with no luck. And I really don’t want to fry my ignition module and or another UNO just poking around .

Things i know . There is 12v+ ,GND , going into the sensor(hall effect) and 3x,18x signals out - inner and outer ring. when CAS is disconnected there is 5v+ on the 18x,3x wires out of the ign mod. and when CAS is pluged in and powered up there is 0v - 5v+ on 18x,3x lines when steel is passed between sensor.

Anyone ?