Commodore VT V6 - Auto to Manual Conversion

[Chuff]

Put the original auto memcal in and see if it fires

Haven't tried using the original auto memcal but I'm thinking that regardless of which loom I use, the PCM won't see any auto transmission data and chuck a wobbly maybe.

differences I can see in the engine connectors:
in Series 1, Engine connector 2 has a grey/blue wire that goes to PCM pin F5 and start relay.
in series 2, that same pin on the engine connector 2 is White/black and goes from the pcm F14 (diagnostic request) to the data link connector

in series 1 there is a pin on engine connector 1, coloured Red/White that goes from the starting position of the key to F8 (crank sensing)
on series 2, this pin is a blank pin in engine connector 1


the serial data pins are in the same place on the engine connectors.

In the Series 1 manual loom I've got, there's a solid Blue wire in F5 and this does not correlate with any diagram or visual confirmation, as you have provided, so I'm at a loss. The donor VT has "M35" as the transmission on the ID plate so it is a definite factory manual.

Still just waiting for the Series 2 loom to arrive, then my pain will either be over, or just beginning.

[Dylan]

If there's a VATS conflict that will cancel that out. Yes it may chuck wobbly but it will start and idle fine regardless of any trans errors.

[vs ss]

Jamie is on the money!The problem is two wire changes up in the three connectors under the bonnet. I had the same problem back in 2003 when I changed a series one harness into a series two car. I still own one of the cars and I just had a look and you can see in the harness where I joined and changed the wires around. Chuff If your happy to wait for your harness that's all good, but if you need I can untape and have a look what I done as its been about seven years since my last harness mod and the sive still ain't holding. Now I just leave the auto harness put a manual tune and change the speed sensor connector with one from an abs harness.

On another it dosent matter weather the bcm is series one or two and the serial is on the same wire in both. I used to swap series two into series one so people had deadlock on the key as series one you still had to turn the door barrel like the earlier commys.
And no matter what everyone said once again on the jc forum this is just a plug and play.

[Chuff]

If there's a VATS conflict that will cancel that out. Yes it may chuck wobbly but it will start and idle fine regardless of any trans errors.

If the BCM & PCM aren't talking to each other as stipulated in the link I provided earlier then I'd assume VATS will not allow the car to start. If this is correct, then everything is working as expected, as the car won't start.

Jamie is on the money!The problem is two wire changes up in the three connectors under the bonnet. I had the same problem back in 2003 when I changed a series one harness into a series two car. I still own one of the cars and I just had a look and you can see in the harness where I joined and changed the wires around. Chuff If your happy to wait for your harness that's all good, but if you need I can untape and have a look what I done as its been about seven years since my last harness mod and the sive still ain't holding. Now I just leave the auto harness put a manual tune and change the speed sensor connector with one from an abs harness.

On another it dosent matter weather the bcm is series one or two and the serial is on the same wire in both. I used to swap series two into series one so people had deadlock on the key as series one you still had to turn the door barrel like the earlier commys.
And no matter what everyone said once again on the jc forum this is just a plug and play.

Thanks for the information & offer to untape your loom but please, don't go to the trouble. It's becoming ever more clear to me that the Series 1 & Series 2 looms are different.

I have 99% faith that the Series 2 loom will just Plug-N-Play, and if time permits, which it probably won't, I'd like to trace and/or meter out the wires in the 2 looms and find the difference for future reference. It's clear I'm not the first to encounter this Series1/Series2 loom problem, and I would have thought/hoped that somewhere on the internet someone would have already gone to the trouble of working out what needs to be changed in the Series 1 loom in order to make it work in a Series 2, and it would have been a simple case of move this wire, cut this wire, join this wire, yada yada yada... and "Voila", Series 2 loom.

On a final note, the Series 2 loom arrived last night and F5 is a solid Grey wire. YAY!! Finally, a loom with wire colours that match at least one of the wiring diagrams I have seen. With a bit of luck the loom will be installed today so we'll find out soon enough.

Thanks everyone.

Chuff

[Chuff]

UPDATE:

Remove Series 1 loom.
Install Series 2 loom.
Turn key.
Perfect!

My son's mate did the swap over and there was no way in hell he was going to sit still long enough to find the difference(s) between the two looms, so exactly how they differ I have no idea, but I can state unequivocally that the manual loom that you use must be from the correct Series VT Commodore.

Hope this helps anyone else finding themselves in the same position.

Thanks to everyone for your input.

Chuff

[Dylan]

Good news!