Torana SS
Re: Torana SS
I run two single phase compressors in line, one bigger one and a smaller one and they rarely throw the sheds safety switch. If I am running them together I do need to hook the vacuum up to a different circuit from the house. Installing a metering valve at the bottom of the cabinet was a saviour for me rather than using the suction hose.
Re: Torana SS
I have a ~15cfm triple piston belt drive compressor with 70L tank, it keeps up with the blasting but will run almost continuously if you don't give it a break.
A few more things bolted down, you can see the slightly improved routing of the heater line at the front now.
Keep getting side-tracked, this time the rocker covers. The original paint was starting to look a bit sad, but still took quite a bit of blasting to get off.
Welded up some of the original and extra holes they're seen over the years.
A few more things bolted down, you can see the slightly improved routing of the heater line at the front now.
Keep getting side-tracked, this time the rocker covers. The original paint was starting to look a bit sad, but still took quite a bit of blasting to get off.
Welded up some of the original and extra holes they're seen over the years.
Re: Torana SS
Nice work on the heater lines.
I recently re-routed mine (VR V8) straight to the drivers side wheel arch and along under the booster back to firewall. I wanted the warm hoses away from the intake manifold mainly.
Your hardlines are very tidy compared to my full house and P-clamp system.
I assume flares and aviation sealant on the pipe ends under those clamps?
I recently re-routed mine (VR V8) straight to the drivers side wheel arch and along under the booster back to firewall. I wanted the warm hoses away from the intake manifold mainly.
Your hardlines are very tidy compared to my full house and P-clamp system.
I assume flares and aviation sealant on the pipe ends under those clamps?
Re: Torana SS
Detail on the hard lines is a few pages back:
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4528&start=170#p123686
No sealant required, there are machined hose barbs welded into the stainless tubing.
The manifold gets pretty hot regardless, but with the cold air intake temps drop quickly when the throttle is opened. With the phenolic throttle body spacer and plastic bodied IAT sensor I'm hoping to avoid false heat soak readings on that, it was occasionally a bit of a problem with the MAT sensor in the intake runner before.
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4528&start=170#p123686
No sealant required, there are machined hose barbs welded into the stainless tubing.
The manifold gets pretty hot regardless, but with the cold air intake temps drop quickly when the throttle is opened. With the phenolic throttle body spacer and plastic bodied IAT sensor I'm hoping to avoid false heat soak readings on that, it was occasionally a bit of a problem with the MAT sensor in the intake runner before.
Re: Torana SS
Covers now painted in wrinkle black.
Used a razor blade to get the bulk of the paint off the top surface while still soft, then sanded once fully cured. Seems to have come up pretty well.
Used a razor blade to get the bulk of the paint off the top surface while still soft, then sanded once fully cured. Seems to have come up pretty well.
Re: Torana SS
Cleaned up the blower housing and replaced the fibreglass with epoxy in the area previously modified for clearance, should last better now.
Removed the resistor wire from the blower motor and added a plug inside the housing.
Made some more holes in the firewall. The little cage is a blower resistor pack I bought online, screws in from the inside of the car. I have more resistors than needed but that gives me some choices for the low speed. The wiring is a pigtail with plug either end that can move back and forth through the firewall to make installation easy.
Going to run an oxygen sensor on each bank, so needed to add a bung on the driver side collector. For some reason I had it in my head that I might be able to drill and weld it in place - ha! So that started a several-hour exercise in frustration trying to get the header out. It used to come out from below but perhaps I haven't removed it with the engine in place since modifying the primaries, because it sure wouldn't yesterday. Some fun times lying under the car trimming excess bell housing edges with a die grinder finally got it out. Then there was something in the metal contaminating the weld, but finally made it work - a lot of effort for such a small thing but done now.
Made a bracket for the plugs on the firewall above the bell housing. The two little boxes bolted in behind the map sensor are the controllers, these connect to the ECU by CAN bus.
All of which means I can start putting things back together. Cam sensor, injectors, fuel rails, regulator, heater tap, vacuum hoses, rocker covers.
Couple more hose clamps and I can move back to the wiring. Engine loom is all but done, then just needs testing and wrapping. But there's not much left in the rest of the car...
Removed the resistor wire from the blower motor and added a plug inside the housing.
Made some more holes in the firewall. The little cage is a blower resistor pack I bought online, screws in from the inside of the car. I have more resistors than needed but that gives me some choices for the low speed. The wiring is a pigtail with plug either end that can move back and forth through the firewall to make installation easy.
Going to run an oxygen sensor on each bank, so needed to add a bung on the driver side collector. For some reason I had it in my head that I might be able to drill and weld it in place - ha! So that started a several-hour exercise in frustration trying to get the header out. It used to come out from below but perhaps I haven't removed it with the engine in place since modifying the primaries, because it sure wouldn't yesterday. Some fun times lying under the car trimming excess bell housing edges with a die grinder finally got it out. Then there was something in the metal contaminating the weld, but finally made it work - a lot of effort for such a small thing but done now.
Made a bracket for the plugs on the firewall above the bell housing. The two little boxes bolted in behind the map sensor are the controllers, these connect to the ECU by CAN bus.
All of which means I can start putting things back together. Cam sensor, injectors, fuel rails, regulator, heater tap, vacuum hoses, rocker covers.
Couple more hose clamps and I can move back to the wiring. Engine loom is all but done, then just needs testing and wrapping. But there's not much left in the rest of the car...
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immortality
- Posts: 3426
- Joined: Thu Apr 09, 2009 12:31 pm
- cars: VH, VN, VS, VX
Re: Torana SS
Looking mint. Love the way that serpentine setup has come out.
Re: Torana SS
Looks trick.
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vlad01
- Posts: 7804
- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 6:41 pm
- cars: VP I S
VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2
VR II executive - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Torana SS
I feel like this is what true engineering looks like.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
Re: Torana SS
^ Thanks, that might be a bit generous. I do aspire to it though.
Nothing too exciting today, have started back on the wiring.
Added earth wires to the front indicator housings, these will get new connectors when they arrive.
Dropped the mounting locations to where they should be, only about 3/4" but it helps make them a bit more visible under the bumper as well as fitting the spoiler better. Rivet nuts for mounting instead of the old speed nuts. Once I find the right gear it will get a lick of approximately the right colour paint.
Starting to think about interior wiring now too. 3D printed a fuse box that suits the remaining relay holders, will need some minor steel bracketry to mount but will fit in the original spot above driver's feet.
Nothing too exciting today, have started back on the wiring.
Added earth wires to the front indicator housings, these will get new connectors when they arrive.
Dropped the mounting locations to where they should be, only about 3/4" but it helps make them a bit more visible under the bumper as well as fitting the spoiler better. Rivet nuts for mounting instead of the old speed nuts. Once I find the right gear it will get a lick of approximately the right colour paint.
Starting to think about interior wiring now too. 3D printed a fuse box that suits the remaining relay holders, will need some minor steel bracketry to mount but will fit in the original spot above driver's feet.