pcmhacking.net

So does anyone have the misfortune of having any experience with Holden Captiva charging systems?

Ours is a 2012 diesel, and the battery light came on the other day when the wife was driving. Light had gone out by the time I got to it a week later, but it only had 11.6 volts across the battery. Did a check with the multimeter earthed on the engine block and it was 13.7 volts. Which is strange as the main battery earth to the engine block must be OK as its starts fine.

Anyone have any experience with how long the alternators in these things are good for? It doesn't even have 100000 kms on it yet.

Blown battery fuse??? What you're describing doesn't make sense...

No it doesn't make sense at all.
I actually ran a temporary earth wire to the block and the voltage came up. This does not make sense either. I did check the resistance of the earth lead to the engine block and it was 0.1 ohms.

But I fitted one of those cheap cigarette volt meters and have been watching the voltage around town. Its generally between the 13 to 14 volts depending on the air cond. But then today, I noticed it drop down to 12.5 volts so was wondering if the alternator is on its way out to cost me some more money.

Your much better off doing a voltage drop test on the earth side when cranking to find the real resistance.

Seems the main earth lug to the engine block being corroded is a common fault on diesel Captivas. Still seems odd that it started fine and the resistance checked out OK. But the connection was definitely no good. Local auto electrician put a new lug on for me using a new threaded boss on the block as the original one broke the bolt off. Our car had the engine out under warranty to do an oil leak, and when it was refitted, they must have cross threaded the earth bolt into the block - that's the beauty of air tools - just cut a new thread. It is charging OK now, but can be quite high. I’m told that when it drops down to 12.5 volts or so is normal as the alternator just goes into float. But it gets up well over 15 volts at times as well.

But less than a week later it started blowing lots of black smoke and flagged the CEL while my wife had the car in Brisbane. RACQ cleared the faults and said it needed a new MAF. Ordered one, and she limped the car back home. I fitted the MAF when I finished my shift, and no difference. So started looking for air leaks after the MAF, and found the hardest to get to intercooler hose has split – it’s the one right above the gearbox. Luckily it’s a common size, so has a piece of silicon hose in there now.

Hopefully this will help someone else.

Return the MAF to RACQ and get a refund.

If you read the hose properly it was doomed from the start.....
I has an arrow and the letters CRK, LOL

That's just the rubber type, CR is chloroprene rubber. Aka neoprene

Can be suitable but depending on quality and exact formulation.

I think hes trying to say CRK = crack

Holden202T wrote:I think hes trying to say CRK = crack

Give the man a cuepy doll....



Cheers
oldn64