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Now days they can last 5 minutes and it's a pain in the area when you are trying to diagnose a no start issue and it's a brand new part failure

Don’t have those issues with genuine

How do I know it’s genuine?

Buy only from a reputable source, I went through the same with widebands, I only buy direct from Bosch now...

I had a faulty CAS out of the box. I have the oscilloscope traces somewhere.

Someone else fitted it, and it went from a no start to a fire and backfire and cough and fart situation.
They replaced everything from DFI to injectors to ECU thinking the CAS was new so it must be OK

Update - replaced CAS and she starts. The one in there that has only done 1000kms was genuine as well. Anyway new DFI and CAS hopefully this will last time time.


Thanks to all that helped.

Ok so I was wrong still has a no start issue only when hot.
Here’s a riddle for those technical. If started it will not stop and runs fine no mater how long. But the moment I turn it off if hot enough will not start again.
Another clue the positive main harness wire terminal at the battery when it fails is too hot to touch so that is an issue that also needs solving. Not sure if or how they are related but??

I'd be fixing the hot wire issue before you have nothing left to fix...

Hahaha yeah the car isn’t moving until the hot wire is sorted.

Update.

Maybe positive lead was quite hot cause battery was low and charging? Still need to look into this one but no voltage drop to alternator or main fuse power.

But I have a 770mV voltage drop from the Batt positive to the sensor voltage output on the DFI. And then when car is running is 1.1 volts. Does anyone know if this normal? DFI input voltage has no drop.