253 V8 carby selection

[v6bucket]

The EGR is supposed to be fitted, just depends how tough the people doing the rego inspection.

[VK_3800]

I believe in some instances manual vehicles did not have factory fitted EGR, but I couldn't tell you specifics. So you might get away with it, but you'd probably need some evidence. A little more non-specific info:
http://www.gmh-torana.com.au/forums/top ... -question/

[Madmatt2006]

Thanks Guy's

Been looking online and the 6 cylinder and V8 EGR valve look same, are they? if they are I can take of donner VH

see pictures below

http://www.2040-parts.com/genuine-nos-h ... -i1549555/

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-hj-h ... Sw5BVeWYuC

[v6bucket]

As far as I'm aware, they are the same.

[Ken]

Yeah egr's on manuals are usually blocked with a plate.
I've not ever seen differences in the 6 or V8 egr.s as in, no spring tension or dimension difference.
As far as carby choice for this motor, my personal main deciding factor in this circumstance is lobe separation of the camshaft.
Red holden 253 and 308's ran 112 lobe sep, restricting the 253 with a 2 barrel carb.
Blue motor 253's ran 196 @ .050 on both lobes, 9.4:1 comp, 106 lobe sep with no advance, and a 4 barrel, with dual unrestricted exhaust system
with a 2 in 2 out muffler.

308 blue was still 112 lobe sep, 196 / 204 @ .050 107 int, and a single exhaust.

There's multiple factors to consider when choosing either a 2 or 4 barrel carb for the 253.

[Madmatt2006]

Yeah egr's on manuals are usually blocked with a plate.
I've not ever seen differences in the 6 or V8 egr.s as in, no spring tension or dimension difference.
As far as carby choice for this motor, my personal main deciding factor in this circumstance is lobe separation of the camshaft.
Red holden 253 and 308's ran 112 lobe sep, restricting the 253 with a 2 barrel carb.
Blue motor 253's ran 196 @ .050 on both lobes, 9.4:1 comp, 106 lobe sep with no advance, and a 4 barrel, with dual unrestricted exhaust system
with a 2 in 2 out muffler.

308 blue was still 112 lobe sep, 196 / 204 @ .050 107 int, and a single exhaust.

There's multiple factors to consider when choosing either a 2 or 4 barrel carb for the 253.

Thanks Ken I ended up ordering the plates to block them thanks for clarifying the EGR setup. Ended up getting 4 barrel Rochester for the carby, thanks for the advice on the exhaust system. I'm taking off the heads tonight so I can check the engine properly. Hopefully all the parts I ordered show up before the long weekend so I can get it running again

[Madmatt2006]

Hi Guy's

Are these torque settings right? Been looking around the web just wanted to double check before putting back together.

Cylinder Head Bolt: Stage 1: 54 - 68 NM
Stage 2: 88 - 102 NM

Rocker Arm Pivot Arm Bolt: 30 - 39 NM

Intake Manifold To Cylinder Head Bolt: Stage 1: 12 - 17 NM
Stage 2: 34 - 41 NM

Also do the Cylinder Head Bolts get tightened in some sort of order from looking around they do not sure which is the right order?

[VK_3800]

Numbers look about right (converting from lb-ft to Nm as I'm using the HQ manual). Those are the factory figures, if you're using aftermarket fasteners they may recommend slightly different numbers but don't go too nuts as you don't want to pull through the deck especially. Take extra care on the rocker pivots if re-using old bolts, and the two inside head bolts that go into the gallery area can be problematic - a lot of people only torque these to second stage (304s did away with them altogether).

Definitely torque the head bolts in sequence, looking from the outside of the engine toward the intake it should be something like this (hope it makes sense):

Code: Select all

                        5                          3
11            7                    2                      8               9

    12          6                  1                    4              10

Intake is supposed to be done in sequence too, just work your way out from the middle bolts to the ones at front/rear of the engine in a similar manner to the heads.

[Madmatt2006]

Numbers look about right (converting from lb-ft to Nm as I'm using the HQ manual). Those are the factory figures, if you're using aftermarket fasteners they may recommend slightly different numbers but don't go too nuts as you don't want to pull through the deck especially. Take extra care on the rocker pivots if re-using old bolts, and the two inside head bolts that go into the gallery area can be problematic - a lot of people only torque these to second stage (304s did away with them altogether).

Definitely torque the head bolts in sequence, looking from the outside of the engine toward the intake it should be something like this (hope it makes sense):

Code: Select all

                        5                          3
11            7                    2                      8               9

    12          6                  1                    4              10

Intake is supposed to be done in sequence too, just work your way out from the middle bolts to the ones at front/rear of the engine in a similar manner to the heads.

Thanks for that I understand perfectly I noticed when taking heads off two inside head bolts that go into the gallery area were no where near as tight as the other bolts, from looking at the block I see what you mean about possible brake, casting is thin that the two inside head bolts go two. I will be using the original rocker pivot bolts thanks for the heads up on that one . Hoping to get it running this weekend , start it out of the car I'll post a video of it running hopefully all new parts have arrived except air filter.

[Madmatt2006]

Hi Guy's after closer inspection of the motor one of the cylinders is pitted bad I think it will have to be sleeved it will need to be fixed before attempting to start the motor. I don't know much about sleeving when I get it sleeved do I just remove the position from bad cylinder out the top of the block and leave the crank and rest of pistons in? can the machine shop sleeve it with the rest left in?

Also when they sleeve it do they boar the cylinder then put sleeve to match original piston size? all the pistons look good

Trying to workout what I need to do before taking to the machine shop so I can get out of this mess as cheaply as I can

I already spent too much on parts and if the misses finds out she will KILL me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!