pcmhacking.net

Progressing nicely

So I did a little more digging on my parcel. Turns out I don't think it's in NZ at all, I think it only just cleared US customs and is now on it's way here

Never mind, got the PS pump out and a few other bits and bobs to take to work Sunday night for a bath. At least it's fairly obvious where the PS fluid was leaking. Then started cleaning up a bit. I spilled some ATF taking out the pump, it seemed to clean and wash away some grease/dirt so I used the rest of the ATF in the reservoir to soak the other built up crap whilst I did a quick little job on the Calais. The Calais started making a weird whirring noise on cold start this week, Initially I thought it was the PS pump but when I popped the bonnet to give everything a once over I found this (belt had jumped one rib over). I keep spare bearings at home so I pressed in new bearing on the Tensioner and grooved idler pulleys for the SC. Hopefully that gets rid of the noise and keeps the belt in the correct groove on the SC pulley.

Whilst cleaning I also discovered something I never knew. On the lower thermostat housing there is a small hole to bypass the thermostat. I'm going to assume the factory did this to help with bleeding the cooling system, mine was fully blocked but a minute with a small drill bit sorted that out pronto. Learn something new some days Looking a little better already. I also had a good look at the engine mounts, the Captains side is fairly much collapsed but the drinkers side looks like new. Whilst I've got everything out around the mount I might see if I still have a spare V6 mount laying about and change it out. With it collapsed like that it's probably gonna upset the knock sensors.

heff0018 wrote:Progressing nicely

Cheers. Yeah, we're getting there slowly.

i cant remember the exact details but when we put head studs on my brothers VP im sure we had to cut the top of a stud (flush with the nut) or groove the manifold flange to clear ....

I did check that once the heads were torqued down and fairly much all the studs were flush with the top of the nuts or only just proud on the studs on the outside of the heads. The stud/nut and washer definitely sit higher than just a bolt head. Worst case I'll need to clearance the exhaust manifold flange.

Still waiting on my cam sensor magnet to turn up

Got a little restless today and decided the balancer needed a birthday. Started off with a steel wire brush and some rust kill/neutralizer but didn't like how that came out. So I got a little more industrious. A quick masking job and we're ready for a splash of paint. And a coat of primer Managed to get all my bits cleaned up at work So once that magnet turns up I can put the whole front end of the motor back together.

I also ordered full set of cooling system hoses. When I disco the LPG system I'll need to replace the hoses for the heater core.

Getting very frustrated waiting on one part holding up everything but found more shit to do.

Gave the PS pump a splash of paint (I scrubbed it hard and got rid of some of the gold type coating on it) Then I remembered there is another idler pulley so went digging in the boot of the car, found it and it's an OEM plastic pulley with a rattly bearing and a dirty mount that needs cleaning and painting. I did find a spare in the garage, the new steel kind but a slightly larger OD. A quick mock up says it should be fine.

Then it was time to modify/improve some stuff with a die grinder. There are a lot of sharp edges/90° turns in the oil system. Those sharp edges and 90° turns reduce the flow of oil. Lets see what we can do about that.

First off the front timing cover. The hole here is cast with a sharp edge. Opened up and radius where access is possible with my small ball end burr. And may as well check the free length of the oil pressure bypass spring. The only thing left to do now is radius the hole where the oil enters the block and that sorts out the timing cover side of things.

Then it's time to look at the oil filter extension housing. First the inlet side, more sharp edges and quiet narrow passages. And you can see the restriction on the return side around the oil filter differential pressure bypass valve. Knock out the valve. And it's time to start grinding.

Opened up nicely on the return side. And the inlet side, Then it was time to blow it out, give it a quick wash and re-assemble.

Hallelujah

Finally arrived, just as the weather turns to shit an I'm back on shift for my long week. It's not quiet the right one. This one has a slightly thinner base but it fits into the cam gear fine and I'll just make up a little packer to go between it and the balance shaft gear. It probably doesn't need it because if you were to run a double row chain then there is nothing in behind it to hold it.