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kojab wrote:I posted this on another thread recently. Might be causing your high idle


Check your TPS closed throttle Voltage. Should be around 0.7V - 0.8V approx. Typically it is less than 1 Volt.


Just set the closed TPS voltage to 0.7V making sure you are using a good earth. After starting the engine or cycling the IGN key the TPS voltage should automatically read 0%

I will have to check this out to make sure its not playing up.
This high idle only started after installing the new iac valve on sunday.
But, until i re - install the old one, or check the tps, i wont know exactly.

cheers
Pete

evening,
VS V6 logged as soon as i got home, with both VS V6 adx's. Attached below.

hi there

i swapped back to the old iac valve on the VR V6 and there are normal rpms now. I had the new iac valve in my hand, plugged in and the key in the on position, there was next to no movement. I was able to move the valve back a little by pushing it firmly, this is why i say next to no movement. The 2nd new iac valve i installed to the VS V6 is working, as in its picking the revs up on startup to around 1500rpm, then its settles pretty much straight away.

Maybe i return it for replacement?

Pete

I understand to set the iac steps, the engine is to be running, and that its a mechanical adjustment, via the throttle stop screw.
I tried the above steps, and got some turns out of the stop screw. While in tunerpro i could see the iac steps. But as there was about 18 or 20 steps while adjusting the stop screw, the revs seemed to high. Maybe ive missed a step or 2 in the proceedure? I'm happy to logg while adjusting if i have to.
One thing i noticed while driving and logging, the iac position/steps were at zero while i was stopped at the lights? Is this normal?

Cheers
Pete

Evening @Antus are you free

I got a price off Blackwells Holden here in NZ today for an iac valve.....Genuine GM....... $300??

That sounds about right for genuine. You'd probably be ok with one from a wrecker.

But I looked at your two logs above, and I am still not clear if Im using the right ADX (someone else with more ecotec experience feel free to step in!). But if I look at the data list view (message 3) then it looks like there is a DTC 32 MAF failure set, which would explain your fueling being out. If you look at the DTCs there do you see the same? Im not convinced your problem starts with the IAC, there is too much wrong. If your MAF is failed and a code set you need to fix that then look again first.

antus wrote:That sounds about right for genuine. You'd probably be ok with one from a wrecker.

But I looked at your two logs above, and I am still not clear if Im using the right ADX (someone else with more ecotec experience feel free to step in!). But if I look at the data list view (message 3) then it looks like there is a DTC 32 MAF failure set, which would explain your fueling being out. If you look at the DTCs there do you see the same? Im not convinced your problem starts with the IAC, there is too much wrong. If your MAF is failed and a code set you need to fix that then look again first.

dtc32.png

I will have to plug in and check again. I did do a fuse and battery lead reset a couple of days ago. I might have to wait until next week, as im heading away for a week tomorrow night.

But ill still be around here on the net.

Thanks for the replys

Edit:

I did have a look at the xdl log you seen the maf error, and I can see it to.
When I get a chance to plug in next, I will re log and re post.

Cheers

Hi

I just plugged in and done a log. I also cleared the MAF sensor failure with the adx, will see if it comes back.
Log attached. Files used are in the log link below.

cheers

That looks good. It must have been the MAF failure code that was the root cause. Hopefully it doesnt come back. Maybe it was just a bad connection one day for long enough that it set.