Converting 202 to DIS

[inj gtr202]

Without going thru all posts my question is. Is this a 2 wire inductive sensor and an alloy wheel? If so how does it work?

Yes its a 2 wire ABS sensor from a vy Commodore and its a steel wheel

[antus]

Its this system: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=128
It is sensitive to false triggers or weak signal. The recommended gap between trigger wheel and sensor is ~ 1mm, and a 0.2mm deviation can create quite a ripple that creates extra zero crossings and stops the module syncing up. When I had hand drilled mounting holes I could not see a problem by eye but I could see a 0.25v ripple on an oscilloscope and it'd work one day and not the next. It'd also run ok if it started but the built in trigger in the module for cranking spark seemed to be more sensitive to problems than the ecu pickup. Because the mounting holes are extended, I suspect something similar might be going on here. The fix for me was to cad up a new wheel with correct mounting holes and get it laser cut and once I installed that everything was great.

[inj gtr202]

Its this system: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=128
It is sensitive to false triggers or weak signal. The recommended gap between trigger wheel and sensor is ~ 1mm, and a 0.2mm deviation can create quite a ripple that creates extra zero crossings and stops the module syncing up. When I had hand drilled mounting holes I could not see a problem by eye but I could see a 0.25v ripple on an oscilloscope and it'd work one day and not the next. It'd also run ok if it started but the built in trigger in the module for cranking spark seemed to be more sensitive to problems than the ecu pickup. Because the mounting holes are extended, I suspect something similar might be going on here. The fix for me was to cad up a new wheel with correct mounting holes and get it laser cut and once I installed that everything was great.

With your re-made wheel did you get it made the opposite way around? ie. have peaks (teeth) instead of cut outs (slots). That is my next move if the new module and a re-shielded pickup wire produces no change. I'll also be increasing the thickness of the wheel to more like 8mm.

[antus]

I slightly corrected the notch width, because looking at the diagram in the link above I figured if the extra notch centre line was 10 degrees from the next, and in the picture it all looked evenly spaced then the notches should be 5 degrees, as should the space, and the one we built previously the notches were less than 5 degrees, and the gap was 10 degrees between the +1 and the next one over. I dont think that was the main problem though. I think the main problem was the imperfection of the centre holes I drilled by hand, as the wheel was cut for my mates car and it had different spacing and alignment of the mounting holes. So when it was machine cut including the mounting holes to be perfect, that did it, it fires everytime now. I did also make a better sensor mount, but I dont think that was at fault either. Feel free to use the attached and modify it to suit the 202.

[inj gtr202]

Thank you for the Cad and info.
I'll measure up the hole positions of the Holden 6 Balancer and overlay them on this design.

Hopefully fire up the new module this weekend.
I couldn't get Thermo fans to turn on by changing the set temp to 5 deg and emulating. I've connected it all up but ran an extra wire from the C1 so I can manually earth it if it doesn't turn on from the ECU once I fire it up.

[inj gtr202]

Tested with a new Ign module. No Change.
Pulled the plugs and turned off fuel and got the very patient and understanding wife to crank the motor while I shone a torch on the Pickup wheel. Sure enough as Ants predicted there is slight runout.
I had extended the slots on a dividing head and made sure everything was dead on within about .02mm. I even made sure I left witness marks of the original slots from laser cutting to be sure I didn't remove too much material. Turns out the slots are too large out the box. Even installed in it's original configuration there is enough slop to make the wheel slightly run out.

My question is, is it a better option to get a new wheel made with raised peaks? or persist with the slots and modify the cad posted above? Also what thickness would be the ideal? Current one is 4mm

[antus]

as far as I know, and stand to be corrected, slots and peaks will function the same, but peaks will make more of a mess of your hand or anything they come in contact with by accident when the engine is running.

[vlad01]

Funny that, looking at the peak style wheels freak me out for exactly that reason. Minced meat!

Probably why those type are almost always internal to the engine on OEM setups.

[inj gtr202]

Attached are 2 .DWG Files for the Holden 6 pickup wheels.
One with slots, the other a mincing machine.

Would greatly appreciate any feedback on slot size and depth to make sure I've got it all correct.

[inj gtr202]

Screen Grab for anyone without Cad