pcmhacking.net

Hi all;

This thread MAY offer some help - maybe not.
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=128

Mike

Found this quote from the thread mentioned above.

"Once done, if hand made like this, its likely your some degrees out. So, clear "Map A: set=RPM derivative spark control option" to stop the ecu from using spark timing to controll idle speed, then get it idling, observe the spark timing the ecu thinks its using, and use a timing light to check what is actually happening. Realtime edit "EST params - Spark reference angle" in small steps untill the commanded spark and the acutal spark (on the timing light) agree. Turn "Map A: set=RPM derivative spark control option" back on, and that is now the correct ref angle for your home made timing wheel. "
Antus.

Would this be the way to dial in the new wheel and sensor?
I know exactly where TDC is and its pretty much bang on with the harmonic balance "0" and the timing cover "0". It's just the TDC scribed on the chopper wheel which is confusing the hell out of me.

Yeah if you have to. Ideally try to get the timing built correctly for alignment in the first place. Keep in mind that for cranking spark it is delivered by the ignition module, so that is not programmable. The ignition module will generate what it thinks is 10 degrees spark based on the hardware reference point and and that is built in to the module and not modifiable. But if its starting ok and on a timing light you are a few degrees out and you dont want to modify the hardware to make it better, you can do this.

I would also update that process to skip disabling rpm derivative spark control, and instead ground the diag pin (better, install a diag switch that does this somewhere) and the ecm will deliver a static 10 degrees (and flash codes) at the flick of a switch anytime you want to put a timing light on it or see if you have any error codes set.

nj gtr202, disregard the TDC that is on the trigger wheel it is confusing the issue.
When the engine is at TDC the rising edge of the "0" notch should align with the center line of the Crank Sensor.
I would suggest that you undo the trigger wheel and rotate it anti-clockwise until the "0" notch aligns with the Crank Sensor,
and if you are in luck the bolt holes may align on the harmonic balancer.

The attached picture shows the relationship between the Crank Sensor and the "0" notch on my Hemi 6 at 10deg BTDC.

https://postimg.cc/RNH2xcb9

Next is the engine running and in Diag mode, this show that the Crank Sensor is about 3deg advanced, soon to be corrected.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOuQOyBPz8g

If I rotate the wheel to the next set of holes they end up being set with the 0 getting picked up at what would be 10deg ret.

I'm guessing that the best way to solve this issue is to slot the holes a little more on a dividing head and allow it to rotate an extra 10 deg so the sensor and 0 notch occurs at TDC.

When you machine the slots longer have it so the White lines in the picture align and the engine at TDC, this will give 10deg advance when in diag mode.


The desired result when the engine is at TDC.

Thanks again for all the advice .
I've given the slots another 15deg of travel so I now have the trailing edge of the zero slot lined up with the centre line of the sensor.

Hopefully close enough to get things started when it's time to fire it up.

Out with the old.
New module all wired in.
Now to just make it neat

That module Gold Standard (Camira). Can it be used to trigger 3 coil packs? I would have thought you would just use the DFI pack that would come with the coils.

Correct, that is the old module which powered a single coil. Photo just showing I removed it