pcmhacking.net

kur4o wrote:It is time to bite the bullet. ANyway it won`t get worse than this.

Run this script and save results to a .rtf file.

From universal patcher->utilities->logger
settings tab->select device->connect vpw->vpw console->check 'enable vpw console',uncheck 'buffered', check 'screen'->upload script button-> select the attached file-> save,copy log to .rtf file

Did you want me to bench script the pcm or have it in the car? I don't think my vxdiag through pcm hammer works in the car but i do have a bench setup for the pcm. I just thought you were somehow wanting to connect everything ie; pcm,bcm etc. Vats is off at the current moment too if that matters

In car with all modules alive will be preferred.

A hot air reworking station will remove the chip easily, and resolder the chip back on as well.

darkman5001 wrote:A hot air reworking station will remove the chip easily, and resolder the chip back on as well.

I had one but some idiot stole it. I think i'm just going to stick with this se bcm, seems to work fine with vats turned off. I'm a bit hesitant to try this script purposed because things are working alright besides tech2win not being able to see the bcm/resets. I really don't want to throw anymore money into this car since i've already spent close to a grand just to get the grand am working Trying to find a bcm for this car without corrosion is damn near impossible. Gm/pontiac knew what they were doing when they designed the car to soak the bcm when it rained. I just don't know what to do, i've bought chipquick, i've taken the chip off the gt one and soldered it back to see if i could do it. The hot air pen i was using is butane and the lettering is no longer visible on the chip so i don't know if it's any good now. I just don't want to screw anything up and spend more money.

DethRattles wrote:The hot air pen i was using is butane and the lettering is no longer visible on the chip so i don't know if it's any good now.

You can damage them with a lot less heat than that. There is a very strong chance its dead. If your happy with things, its probably a good place to stop.

antus wrote:

DethRattles wrote:The hot air pen i was using is butane and the lettering is no longer visible on the chip so i don't know if it's any good now.

You can damage them with a lot less heat than that. There is a very strong chance its dead. If your happy with things, its probably a good place to stop.

Hey Antus, What exactly does this script do that he wants me to run?

kur4o is not going to have you do something that may cause harm, he will tell you if it may before hand.

The 3C script does NOTHING but READ all the 3C modes, it will do no harm!

-Enjoy

Thanks Gampy , I kept hinting at a hint. I did just buy a bcm today and gonna try and solder it over. Just wished he would tell me what would happen with this script. Things were like shit isn't going to get worse but people were misunderstanding what was happening now. Sorry Fur4o. I've been trying to figure out a game plan, try this new ebay bcm and see what happens. Then try and see it with no vats, then wondered what it's like with no vats...i want to go down the line , I'm not as smart as you folks. i just want things to go right and I've made wrong choices on what've done. I wanted to double triple check. i was in the wrong again ..and will most likely do it again.

You use a torch on it and you'll likely destroy it, when people say use hot air they mean thermally controlled electric hot air not hot air from a torch.

Yes, someone good with a torch can do it, but they ruin many chips in the learning process.

-Enjoy

It's not all that cooked as you can see..pretty sure it's still viable. The 3in1 harbor freight soldering iron works pretty good but as I said the lettering is hardly visible. Soldered it back on a little crooked but that eeprom is tiny af.