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It cant be clipped and will need to be desoldered and my vin installed. Its for a 2004 grand am gt. Thank you in Michigan, USA

DethRattles wrote:It cant be clipped and will need to be desoldered and my vin installed. Its for a 2004 grand am gt. Thank you

Maybe a location might help? return shipping to Australia could get expensive

What kind of EEPROM?

8 pin,,but i decided to go against it and not sure how to delete the post. I did buy some low solder quick clip? or something called similar to that for desoldering smd's

low temperature chipquick, yep, great stuff. dont get the pins hotter than you need too, its when the solder inside the eeprom melts from heat traveling up the pin that you kill it. This is the stuff viewtopic.php?f=42&t=6546&p=95972&hilit ... ick#p95956

I think i might've heated the chip too much already with my first time using a hot air iron. Its a 3 in 1 butane soldering iron/hot air gun. It burnt the letters off the chip a little bit. I then bought the chip quick but havent used it since my current bcm/pcm is working. I cant afford to ruin my bcm at the attempt to swap them.

Yeah that doesnt sound promising. Usually you want to use a temperature controlled iron or heat gun on the lowest setting that'll melt the solder, for the least time as possible to give the heat less chance to head up the pins. You can get these "T12" irons now that are good for the money and some sites put the circuit board in a 3d printed case setup so you plug it on to your cordless tool battery. That makes it super small and light, and the weight of the battery stops it from falling over when your working on your car. They are temperature controlled, have a nice screen, and heat up to the requested temp really quickly. They have power saving mode where if you dont use them for a while they back off to 200 degrees C, and as soon as you pick them up they sense they've been moved and heat back to the requested temp in seconds.

Which engine/pcm and why does the chip need to come off?
if it's a v6 it can be programmed.

playtoy_18 wrote:Which engine/pcm and why does the chip need to come off?
if it's a v6 it can be programmed.

It needs to come off a bcm and onto another bcm. I got things working somewhat though. Its a llong story about my 2004 grand am gt 3.4l v6 bcm getting corroded. So i bought another used bcm from the junkyard and was told it was a gt bcm..it was an se bcm. My car wouldnt start because of vats and thats how i made it to this forum. I bought a vxdiag nano and read the bin and some folks here helped to turn off the vats on my gt pcm to work with my se bcm. I wanted to desolder the eeprom from my old onto the se bcm so my gt pcm would work. That was before the vats was removed or passlock. So it really doesnt need to be done or else i'd be out of a vehicle and searching for a new bcm if i failed the soldering. I wanted someone more experienced to do it. So it looks like i'm stuck with the se bcm and my tech2win cant use any body controls on it. These bcms cannot be programmed on the pontiac grand ams. The chip has to be physicallly removed and then programmed or swap the eeprom into another bcm.

So either i use the chipquick and do it and take the chances,,or i leave it and try and figure out how to make the bcm recognized in tech2win.

Actually it can be done. I have changed vin and options on 2002 w-body v6 bcm, I am almost sure they are very similar.
Than you will need vats relearn with key on key off for 3x10mins.