d1998a dfi module or v6 rodeo module

[SoullessShadow]

Mine has teeth instead of slots but that should make it less likely to have problems. I spend ages hand filing them perfect to the template so unsure how I could get that much better. I don't think I have the space to fit an au sensor in there. It's not for me and I didn't really want to do the car in the first place so motivation is lacking.

[Vrv8hz]

What did you use for a template?

viewtopic.php?t=8595

[antus]

Its its loosing sync at higher rpm, likely due to false triggers. The signal is analog and its functioning like a generator, so the voltage will go up as the RPM goes up. The problems I have seen are from imperfections that are low enough voltage they dont cause an issue but above a certain RPM the voltage the false triggers are creating are high enough that they cross the trigger threshold in the module, then it sees 7+1 instead of 6+1 and very uneven spacing due to the extra trigger and then you have problems.

You could try reversing the polarity of the sensor, but the symptoms don't sound 100% like a reverse polarity problem. Easy thing to try anyway.

If you have a digital scope and put it on the signal you'll be able see analog voltages and should be able to see if there is something that could register a false trigger. Not a piece of kit in most garages though.

[SoullessShadow]

I used the drawing and just scaled it down then cut it out.

I'm not sure it's even being over 1000rpm yet. I tried swapping the polarity around on both sensors. The vt abs only worked 1 way and the zetec CAS seemed to do the same thing whichever way it was connected. But making the teeth wider and thicker to more accurately represent the original wheel seemed to make it worse not better oddly

[SoullessShadow]

But yeah short of looking at it with a scope which I don't have here or really and good tools they are all at my dad's after the move is making it tricky then it's a time thing too. I thought about building it up all around to make it a slot style instead of toothed but unsure that will be helpful or worth the amount of time to build it up with weld and then grind back. Unfortunately it's not a simple flat plate I'm working with it's a pressed steel plate with a step to go into the crank sprocket

[antus]

It might be something to do with the wiring to the module. at 450 RPM (configurable in the tune) the PCM takes over the timing control by changing the signal on 'bypass' and lower than that, the module is generating spark at 10 degrees and ignoring EST. You might have a wiring problem with your EST line from the PCM to the module. That would be consistent with your findings. For the couple of minute delay before you can restart, that could be a flood condition because of the lack of spark when it stalls and some fuel needs to evaporate out.

[SoullessShadow]

Okay yep that could be something to check for sure. I'll double check all that again.

I'm not really trying to start it just trying to get a stable cranking rpm but even with the fuel pump disconnected it tries to fire at times. I'm just trying to validate the sync really by cranking it and logging the rpm and injector pulse etc. but when it does fire it would go over that 450rpm then after that it won't read any rpm until your power it off for a bit and then crank again.

I should find the injector power fuse and pull that while I'm checking so it stops firing every now and then. I would of thought the rail would be empty by now but maybe not

[antus]

Ok, if it was EST then it'd still read RPM, you'd get a stall and no spark. Is Ref Low a wire from the pin on the module to the PCM, not connected to chassis ground at any point?

[SoullessShadow]

Okay I had a quick look and double checked my wiring

The connections from the dfi to PCM are like this:

Pin A ----> D5
Pin B ----> D4
Pin C ----> Tach not yet connected to anything
Pin D ----> Empty
Pin E ----> B5
Pin F ----> B3

I'm unsure which one your referring to as ref low but I'm guessing it's B3?? I checked for ground loops with the PCM and the dfi plug disconnected and it wasn't to ground. Or are you saying it's supposed to be earthed somewhere along the way as well?

[SoullessShadow]

When I plug the dfi back in then at pin B3 on the PCM I get a connection to ground. Is that correct behavior been earthed thru the dfi? From my diagram it looks like that's what should happen?