d1998a dfi module or v6 rodeo module

[delcowizzid]

Your 3rd down scope picture is the correct polarity

[delcowizzid]

And make sure the vr sensor isn't mounted 90 degrees off I've used abs sensors for triggers and if they arnt aligned the correct orientation the output voltage is very low compared to being rotated to the proper direction

[SoullessShadow]

What is considered to low a voltage? It's between 0.7v and 1v at cranking speed. Is that ballpark or?

Yeah I forgot about that I tried it with the VT abs sensor and it didn't seem to make alot of difference but that was before I had the scope.

If it is 90 degrees out is it possible the field is to "wide" and that's why it's not getting the teeth that are closer together correctly?

[SoullessShadow]

Oh and I'm using a ford zetec CAS atm as it just fit better packaging wise and had exact same resistance as the stock Jackaroo CAS

[inj gtr202]

I'm probably stepping way out of my lane replying to this at all but I'll share my experience anyway.

I set up this same system on a 202.
I got 2 wheels laser cut. 1 with raised teeth and 1 with slots.
I never got the one with raised teeth to work. Admittedly I was fault finding other issues and trialling different sensors at the time and didn't have access to a scope to fully verify what was going on.
If you continue to battle this maybe try a wheel with slots instead of raised teeth.

[antus]

0.7 - 1 is lower than what mine is. I was seeing above 3v at cranking and 20v at run. I believe the module uses the zero crossing not the peak so I think the biggest and first problem is that you don't get a clear zero crossing on the +1.

FWIW I think the related patents are as follows. I just found them in my notes looking for the screen shot of my scope... But they're tl;dr and not like a users manual. I'm just posting incase anyone wants to go that deep.

https://patents.google.com/patent/US5146882A/en
https://patents.google.com/patent/EP0353847A2/en

There is a trace here that shows around 4-5v though its not clear if that is at cranking. viewtopic.php?p=21871#p21871

[antus]

Ive just been looking through my notes and I found this one. Not your problem but just adding to the pool of information. It was a CAS sensor from a getz, and it shows the ripple which I think was my problem before I got another wheel cut. This is cranking and its generating just under 2v. It doesn't help us know the minimum voltage at crank. But you can see in the right hand half the outer edge of the trigger wheel has an imperfection that is creating a ripple, so the issue with this one was that above about 4000 rpm the volts got high enough that ripple started creating a false trigger and it'd misfire. You can also see the +1 trigger is 100% as pronounced as the other 6 (even if the peak voltages vary due to being cut by hand).

[Holden202T]

without seeing your actual trigger wheel its hard to say but i would try cleaning up the gap between the two teeth, firstly if the bottom of the slot is rounded get a file in there and make sure its nice and square in the corners.

also potentially take 1mm off the side of the teeth to make that slow slightly larger .... be careful though cause its a one way street .... but you have a scope so you can see results directly.

i have also heard similar with internal slots being better than teeth sticking out on a trigger wheel.

[antus]

Just looking again I think you have an imperfection here which if you can get a good +1 and it works it might cause a higer RPM misfire similar to the wobble in the one I posted above (or it might be ok.. but keep it in mind for the future).

[SoullessShadow]

All great info thanks guys. I think first plan is to see if the sensor is in the right orientation and the try to find out how wide the pole of the sensor is vs my tooth width. Then after that make sure between the teeth are as smooth and concentric as possible. Then start to narrow the tooth width to try and get a bigger gap between the teeth and go from there I guess. And then keep checking the waveform as I go