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From what I can tell the zetec CAS is almost 7mm wide so that's probably alot of the reason it's not getting the small gap between the sync tooth well. So I made all the teeth abit more narrow 3.5mm down to 2.5mm and tried my best to get it spot on spacings etc.

Re positioned the CAS to get the air gap down to 0.15mm to try and maximize the voltage at cranking. But with the teeth been narrow it stayed the same as before really.

It's still not getting the reference tooth well but at least it has a defined 0v crossing now. I can't do much else with it and I can't make the vt abs sensor fit well in the space I have. I'm not sure it would work any better tbh.

But now I get absolutely nothing from the PCM as far as a RPM goes... Tried reversing polarity. It at least read some rpm before enough to fire it and almost keep running. To have nothing now with a much better waveform then it ever could have had before is annoying to say the least.

Considering it's not mine and I'm troubleshooting it for someone whilst not being paid my motivation is super low to keep going with it after tonight

Didn't attach

I think I most frustrated by the fact I could hook pretty much any aftermarket ECU with a configurable trigger and be able to use that waveform no problem. I've seen way way worse that needs some pretty heavy filtering and they just runfor for years and years

So I had one last look at this today. I ended up using a VY abs sensor as the pole was smaller then a vt one. Measured around 1.7k ohm.

Got that installed with a 0.2mm air gap and got a decent looking waveform with 7v to over 10v on the peaks at cranking compared to less then 1v it was before.

Plugged the ECU back in and it started straight away with a clean looking rpm trace not bumps or anything in tunerpro.

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for their input and advice kept me motivated to keep going with it.

Well done lad

good to hear you got it sorted!

excellent, good to hear

So to finish this project and thread off. The owner ideally wanted the engine to run on the factory COP coils. I made a interface unit to trigger the coils from the outputs from the dfi. It runs even smoother now although the coils do get hot can hold you finger on them but definitely warmer then I'd expect. The dwell is probably alot more then they would usually see so not sure how long it will last but ran for 10mins or so just idling and a few rev ups evey now and then.

the DFI would be providing 12v to the trigger wire your feeding into the COPs? are they supposed to have that or 5v signal ?