vlad01 wrote: ↑Mon Oct 21, 2024 7:58 pm
I had an issue not with TP, but the programmer stopped working after a windows update the other week, win 11 as well.
This is despite the device showing up and detecting by windows correctly. My best guess is some security changes block more legacy built software from accessing external hardware ports but I was never able to 100% confirm this.
What I did was run the programmer software in compatibility mode, win 7 in my case and it works perfect again.
Maybe TP is having a similar issue, you could try that and see, quick and easy to do and one more thing ticked off the list either way.
Interesting as it only started happening recently.
I'll try for power at the aldl and if not try this. Is there any chance you could run me through how to do it?
You should only need the data line and ground for the ALDL adapter, that's all I wire up on my cars and it all works fine. The adapter gets it's power from the USB port, not the OBD port.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
vlad01 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2024 3:31 pm
You should only need the data line and ground for the ALDL adapter, that's all I wire up on my cars and it all works fine. The adapter gets it's power from the USB port, not the OBD port.
So, no point checking the obd2 port then. I googled about the compatibility mode and changed to windows 7 and 8 and still nothing.
I'd just check the ground pin is continuous to any good body ground as a sanity check, and probe through the data line to the ECU to make sure.
Other than checking the plugins in TP and settings, I don't know what else to suggest on the laptop side other than physically bad USB ports (common on HP laptops new out of the box which gets worse with use).
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
vlad01 wrote: ↑Tue Oct 22, 2024 4:10 pm
I'd just check the ground pin is continuous to any good body ground as a sanity check, and probe through the data line to the ECU to make sure.
Other than checking the plugins in TP and settings, I don't know what else to suggest on the laptop side other than physically bad USB ports (common on HP laptops new out of the box which gets worse with use).
How would you do this? I'm not very good when it comes to electronics.
multimeter set to resistance or the beeper. if resistance check one cable to obd pin 4 and one to a good metal connection on the body, check less than 4 ohms comes up. same for pin 5 to body. Or on beeper test it beeps when you put the multimeter probes together to test the meter setup then as above listening for beeps between pin 4 and ground, and pin 5 and ground. Often cars only have one of 4 or 5 connected and our interfaces have 4 and 5 joined internally so it should work if you only have one of them but if you have both then you might solve problems with other devices that are only wired to one or the other.
I don't think that should matter, I mostly plug the OBD first as it's under the passenger near the ECU (adapter for the adapter), then the laptop when I get in on the driver side.
Ive also done it the other way like you suggest a couple of time but rarely do, it doesn't care either way in my case.
I'm the director of VSH (Vlad's Spec Holden), because HSV were doing it ass about.
