Universal Patcher

[Denny]

Hi, I was wondering if their is a list of dtc's to disable to run a engine standalone? The engine I'm working on is a 2007 Chevy Silverado LY2 4.8 with a E38 PCM. I will also need to use the vats delete patch. No key. I have a good idea what needs disabling, but I'm sure I will miss something. I was just wondering if someone has made a list. I am trying to do that now.

[Denny]

Here is a list of the codes that pop up on the bench, had no codes when pulled. My build is a 2007 Chevy Silverado 4.8 LY2 E38 standalone. Vats delete, Egr delete, Rear O2 delete.

P0122 Throttle/Pedal Position sensor switch A Circuit Low Input
P0223 Throttle/Pedal Position sensor switch B Circuit High input
P0449 Evap System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit
P1682 Ignition Unplugged
P2122 Throttle/Pedal Position sensor switch D Circuit Low Input
P2127 Pedal Position Validation Switch 2 Low
P0107 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input
P0230 Fuel Pump Primary Circuit
P0452 Evap System Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input
P0463 Fuel Level Sensor Circuit High Input

So my starting point would be???
P0449, P1682, P0230, P0452, P0463. Along with all the codes for EGR, rear O2 sensors, and A/C. Am I correct in assuming this???? If yes I will create a full list and post it. I have searched and found nothing.

[Tre-Cool]

well to run the engine standalone is gonna be no different to when it's in a vehicle if it's wired properly.

sure you could remove the rear o2 sensors & maf & front o2's but it's only going to run as good as the base tune loaded into it. so for as little fookery as possible keep the maf connected & front o2's wired in.

Throttle body & pedal will still need to be wired in & maybe a manual tune loaded if no transmission is connected. Turn off clutch input & vats and away you go.

[Denny]

Hi, thanks for your reply. Wiring won't be my problem. I can bet I will miss something with the DTC's. Example I forgot about ABS. I am working on a list right now, looking stuff up as I go along if needed. To create the list I am going through all the possible DTC's listed for my bin in Universal Patcher. I'm about half way through right now and have close to 50 codes that need to be Disabled, in order to run the engine with no check engine light. I did not realize there would be so many to disable.

What are the U codes for??? Should they be disabled??? Thanks any help is appreciated.

[antus]

I'd suggest you build the car first, then consider each DTC that registers when you try and start it. Think about - is it expected this came on? If not, check your hardware and wiring. Something like VSS/speed might stay triggered until the car moves. So if its speed related and it hasnt moved, ignore than one until you can drive it a few meters. If a DTC is on, should the PCM know this thing is wrong? If so turn off check engine light (CEL) aka MIL for that code, but not the code. Then it will still use code too work around it, and your CEL/MIL will still work if something breaks later. Or is it something that the PCM should be none the wiser for? There are less of these, if any, but if that is the case then set it to don't process.

Things like ABS tend to be in the cluster, not the computer, so you can burn a lot of time over thinking the DTCs rather than just looking at where you end up and taking it from there. You will need the VATS disabled to be able to start it, so thats not a DTC but look to apply a VATS test at the start of what you are doing. Also have a think about what Tre-cool said, he knows his stuff.

The codes are to tell you a circuit has failed and you should investigate that circuit or sensor and fix it.

[Denny]

Hi, again. Thanks for the info. I plan on running it on the stand first.
So the proper steps would be:
1- Use vats delete patch on original bin.
2- Write bin to ECU.
3- Run engine.
4- Check for codes and work from there.

Is this correct???

[antus]

Yeah except Tre-cool mentioned clutch configuration. It might need to see clutch in to start, so without a clutch that is probably another setting to change to get it started.

[Denny]

Hi, this is what I have. Not sure about the cruise control, but Its unplugged so I am assuming? I Plan on trying what antus recommended and post what the codes actually are. Thanks for the input Tre-Cool, and antus. I noticed I listed the brake booster, but its needed.

[Toytruck89]

Not sure if you got it fired up or not Denny, but if you're running a fuel pump relay off the ECM, then you want to leave the Primary Fuel Pump Circuit code on. The secondary ones can be turned off.

I would keep the brake booster ones on, IIRC it's what the ECU uses as a barometric pressure reading when you first key it on.

Otherwise, looks pretty decent. If you're going to fire up on a stand, and don't have O2 sensors hooked up, or if they're just in the headers, might want to leave the PCM in open loop as well (turn OFF the closed loop enable vs ECT).

Secondly, dependent on modifications made (if it's got a camshaft installed, and so on), you might want to make a couple basic edits. But really, should fire up on a stand with VATS disabled and nothing else done.

[Denny]

Hi Toytruck89. Thanks for your reply. I was going to wire the fuel pump separate, but now that you mention it, why not use it. I have done a lot of reading and watching Richard Holdener videos. I am planning to swap cams. I narrowed it down to either a L96 cam or a LS2 cam. The L96 looses nothing at low rpm, and has a top end gain of close to 40HP in a 5.3. The LS2 looses a bit of power at low rpm, but gains 75HP at the top on a 5.3.

My engine is out of a 2007 4.8 LY2, with 243 heads. Vats delete, egr delete, rear o2 delete. Any advice of where to start??? I have been comparing my LY2 bin to a L96 bin in Universal Patcher, trying to figure it out.
Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for looking and have a great day!