Wideband recommendation

[Deuce]

Cool that sounds good . I will give that a go and see how it works !

6 months, and how did you go?
Step up resistor might have something to do with the strength of the WB data output? As in higher amperage. Just a thought.

Because my 11p '424' was reading incorrectly. So I removed the resistor as per instructions on here. Then the readings were perfect match between laptop and gauge display.
As I said earlier, I'm using innovative, so it might not be an issue on other brand gauges.

[Jaso74]

Hey . 6 month , that went quick !
Seems a while back now trying to remember but I had some issues with my WB fitment and couldn't get gauge or reading on TP5 working properly initially .
As it turned out I had several earthing issues that I had to address to get it all working well.
I did do the resistor removal anyway at the time as I figured I needed to eliminate that as being an influence in the fault I did have.

Anyway 6 month on and the Spartan 3 has been great. I have done countless drive/log/adjustments and have a pretty good running engine. Over all tune is I guess say about 85 percent mark from what I would call a completed tune I would be 100% happy with , barring things changing and retune adjustments needed.

Funnily enough though saying that, I just went to start it after sitting in a cold Victoria Shed for a week and it appeared quiet flooded on start up, heaps of excess fuel and had to keep rpm up a little to stop stalling till it ran for about 30 seconds and cleared itself. Two thoughts come to mind , obviously start up fuel is crappy and needs attention, or I have a leaky injector issue /issues . I was thinking of running it out of fuel by pulling pump fuse when i shut it down for weekend and see how it starts next weekend to see if not having pressure in line does anything, as in help a injector leak issue. Don't know if this would do much but free to try .

[Deuce]

Hey . 6 month , that went quick !
Seems a while back now trying to remember but I had some issues with my WB fitment and couldn't get gauge or reading on TP5 working properly initially .
As it turned out I had several earthing issues that I had to address to get it all working well.
I did do the resistor removal anyway at the time as I figured I needed to eliminate that as being an influence in the fault I did have.

Anyway 6 month on and the Spartan 3 has been great. I have done countless drive/log/adjustments and have a pretty good running engine. Over all tune is I guess say about 85 percent mark from what I would call a completed tune I would be 100% happy with , barring things changing and retune adjustments needed.

Funnily enough though saying that, I just went to start it after sitting in a cold Victoria Shed for a week and it appeared quiet flooded on start up, heaps of excess fuel and had to keep rpm up a little to stop stalling till it ran for about 30 seconds and cleared itself. Two thoughts come to mind , obviously start up fuel is crappy and needs attention, or I have a leaky injector issue /issues . I was thinking of running it out of fuel by pulling pump fuse when i shut it down for weekend and see how it starts next weekend to see if not having pressure in line does anything, as in help a injector leak issue. Don't know if this would do much but free to try .

Good to hear.
Also pull the vacuum line off the back of the reg to see if the vacuum line is wet with fuel. This would indicate a dead reg and it's leaking pressure past your diaphragm into the Mani while sitting.

Otherwise possibly it's colder than you have previously tuned down to for start up fueling

[Jaso74]

Good idea on the reg.
I actually have a brand new Bosch one in the box so might as well throw it on .
I started it again today and still very rich and flood like on cold start , same conditions probably only 2-4C degrees .

[Snitz]

Hi Jaso, is your car using a flash PCM or not?

I have a non flash based PCM from a VY L67 in my VN running an NA engine, however do have a wideband kit to install and wire in for data logging and a gauge presence simultaneously if possible. Any tips where to gather that guidance from? Cheers

[vlad01]

Yeah it takes a good cold winter to iterate and dial in the cold cranking and other cold start/warmup tables. It takes many full stone cold to warm up cycles, thus many days to weeks to dial this in as you only have one shot each day for a few sec per each deg C table cell to quickly observe symptoms/data and behavior. You make a change, then you wait until it's dead cold again the next day, rinse and repeat.

Living in Vic makes all the issues show up due to huge temp range of both ends. Less of an issue in other more northern states where the temps are more steady and narrow. Where I live, we get as low as negative 1-2 in the morning most days during winter, no more than 5-7 during the day on average, then in summer it's mid to high 30s, sometimes low 40s, but as low as 10 at night on a clear night. Then you have the humidity, 85-100% during winter, 25-35% during summer most often plus the huge day/night humidity swings.

Makes you get good at tuning fast though

[Vrv8hz]

Does this look like a genuine bosch sensor?

[vlad01]

I very much doubt it.

[antus]

Cant say for sure but I'm with vlad. I'd expect it to be bosch to start with, not "14 point 7". I did actually have a 14.7 kit back in the day and the sensor was not marked like that. The sensor seems to have a 2012 date on it which would pre-date more modern verification, but it looks brand new. The only way it would be legit is if 14point7 the company got a batch specially made custom and its been sitting on a shelf for 13 years. Not absolutely impossible, but not expected.

Bosch stuff usually uses holograms and codes such as https://www.boschaftermarket.com/xc/en/keysecure.html
But even then they seem to have an app now, so I don't know what has changed. I dont know if they use it on their automotive parts yet, or will do. https://www.bosch-origify.com/

Generally speaking the only way to get a genuine sensor for sure is to go to an official OEM supplier or absolutely trusted store, but even then they make mistakes.
I havn't looked at it for a while but I believe many more modern cars have bosch widebands from factory. If you did a bit of research you may be able to pick a car and get one from the wreckers, too, but you'd still have unknown condition.

[Vrv8hz]

Yep Ant/Vlad that's about what I thought as well.

New sensor arrived last week from 14point7.

I queried Alan at 14point7 as to why there is no bosch part number on the sensor body. The answer given was that he gets them straight from Germany pre branding and has them made to his spec.

No way to confirm any of this as they don't carry Bosch markings.

To my query Alan then told me he does not want me as a customer and to smash my entire order up with a hammer, send him a pic and he will refund. Not that he will address the sensor issue, offer any replacement or refund or further evidence of quality.