Tunning Help with LM7/4L60E

[V8fan]

Link to the thread?

viewforum.php?f=37
Feel free to start new about modifying 4l60e for hiHP

[Denny]

Hi senorc10. I am very interested in this topic. Does anyone know where, when, and how much fuel to add? For his cam? I would think fuel would need to be added at all rpms across the board. Bye how much? No clue.

Here is a question??? For example. Sorry if it's a stupid one.

If the replacement cam has 10% more lift, would you add 10% more fuel across the board? In addition, if the duration is 1% more would you have the injectors open 1% longer?

Thanks for reading.

[senorc10]

Deuce- TBH idk how many ponies I'll be pushing. But my best guess is 350-425 at the crank.....and that might be optimistic. I would appreciate any input you have to making it stronger I enjoy to learn new things. I don't think I'll be drag racing with the truck just the occasional burn out and spirited driving.

V8fan- I have the 4L60e and my original plan was to use the saginaw 4spd but I doubt that thing will hold up to the power of the ls and not to mention the highway drivability of the transmission but I am all ears.

Denny- So right now I am only doing a start up file so I don't have it fined tune, so I've only added some more air and fuel from the 800-1200 range and the first 5-8 rows. but once again it was just to get it started and see if it would idle on its own.
That is a great question and hopefully someone with more experience can answer it for us.

[gametech]

Hi senorc10. I am very interested in this topic. Does anyone know where, when, and how much fuel to add? For his cam? I would think fuel would need to be added at all rpms across the board. Bye how much? No clue.

Here is a question??? For example. Sorry if it's a stupid one.

If the replacement cam has 10% more lift, would you add 10% more fuel across the board? In addition, if the duration is 1% more would you have the injectors open 1% longer?

Thanks for reading.

That is NOT how tuning works. You need to do more research on the basics of how internal combustion engines work before trying to tune one. Cams do not just change airflow by X amount. It is far too involved to explain in a forum post.

[Deuce]

Hi senorc10. I am very interested in this topic. Does anyone know where, when, and how much fuel to add? For his cam? I would think fuel would need to be added at all rpms across the board. Bye how much? No clue.

Here is a question??? For example. Sorry if it's a stupid one.

If the replacement cam has 10% more lift, would you add 10% more fuel across the board? In addition, if the duration is 1% more would you have the injectors open 1% longer?

Thanks for reading.

Definitely do not add based on percentage theory. It will 0% help you.

My best guess would be to look at the VE map, find the peak torque, copy and paste everything below that up a row (assuming the new cams torque peak will be about 400rpm higher or the equivalent of 1 cell row).

Then when road tuning take it slowly above this rpm until you have good data on it to retune from.

This is also only an okay plan, but will get you a lot closer than your percentage plan.
You will see that cell to cell in the rows doesn't change heaps where you are getting started from (and low rpm cells will have LESS volumetric efficiency than the base map.)

[Deuce]

Deuce- TBH idk how many ponies I'll be pushing. But my best guess is 350-425 at the crank.....and that might be optimistic. I would appreciate any input you have to making it stronger I enjoy to learn new things. I don't think I'll be drag racing with the truck just the occasional burn out and spirited driving.

I had a TCI 376002 shift kit fitted to mine, (you would use 376001). Fitted external cooler and drove it for 11yrs with around 380 crank horses. In the end 3/4 clutch pack started slipping at WOT 2-3 shift (6200rpm), so pulled it apart when conveniently the 500+ engine was ready to go in.
Added a heavier pump slide spring 700 pkh, so the new engine won't burn clutches at 7000rpm shifts.
Thanks to immortality for the idea of that spring.

I'm still mentally prepared for something else in the trans to say 'no thanks' at some point. But will cross that bridge when it happens.

[Denny]

Thanks for the information, Deuce. That makes more sense.
[/quote]
Definitely do not add based on percentage theory. It will 0% help you.

My best guess would be to look at the VE map, find the peak torque, copy and paste everything below that up a row (assuming the new cams torque peak will be about 400rpm higher or the equivalent of 1 cell row).

Then when road tuning take it slowly above this rpm until you have good data on it to retune from.

This is also only an okay plan, but will get you a lot closer than your percentage plan.
You will see that cell to cell in the rows doesn't change heaps where you are getting started from (and low rpm cells will have LESS volumetric efficiency than the base map.)
[/quote]

[senorc10]

Duece- Yeah I don't really wanna bash the ish out of the truck but who knows I say this right now but when I'm behind the wheel and smashing on the throttle I am sure it's going to be a different story. I think I will follow your plan. Since I will not be beating on it to much I think that it will survive a bit.

[V8fan]

V8fan- I have the 4L60e and my original plan was to use the saginaw 4spd but I doubt that thing will hold up to the power of the ls and not to mention the highway drivability of the transmission but I am all ears.

I started to tune 4l60e reading LS1tec about mods
And checked info at my own 4l60e
Broke it several times of course )
Now I can say that all that shift kits not needed actually
But for inexperienced builder it contain almost all that you need
Most important part is to check all leaks to understand how much wear valve body has
Without checking its a roulette will or will not tranny live long
I can say leaking not so important if you build drag tranny and pushed all orifice holes to max -it will shift fast and rude
But for daily driving better to make all right
If you have no question how it behaves now we can assume that valve body +- in good condition
My opinion -rebuilt it with fresh seals and teflon rings (its important to lowering leakage between stator and input drum)
There is a lot of tune that you can use to make it stronger
But even OEM can hold 500+HP quite long with minor upgrades