Vlad's rides thread
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antus
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Looks good!
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
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vlad01
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VP II executive #2 - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Thanks! All coming together slowly.
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seabreeze
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Great read and pics as usual! I had a heap to catch up on. Love the stash of Buick V6's.
Just checked repco and the 027 rotors are still there! Have ordered a pair for the VN V6 that has a recent V8 front break conversion. For that price i can have a spare set of rotors waiting.
Just checked repco and the 027 rotors are still there! Have ordered a pair for the VN V6 that has a recent V8 front break conversion. For that price i can have a spare set of rotors waiting.
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vlad01
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
Thanks!
I am finding those cheap rotors to be very good actually, they don't seem to suffer from the super heavy and deep pitting from an over night's rain where the pad sits. Often these pits from a single heavy rain go easily 1/4 or maybe up to 1/2mm deep and take 10s of 1000s of Km to wear off, some were still there from I think Dec 2023 where we has an afternoon of flash flooding just before xmas. Not sure why that kept happening with my last rotors, some galvanic/chemical erosion? Safe to say these rotors do not suffer the same issue as we have had tons of rain lately and I didn't drive anywhere for a week, so there was ample time with water washing the rotors, only gets a light surface rust and slight staining on the pad area that all rubs off after a drive or few, nothing really sub surface. I originally thought it was something in the pads that became super acidic when water got on them, but I now know it was the rotor's susceptibility rather than the pads alone.
Speaking of water, this car is taking the piss. I was still getting moisture in the shitbox with no clear source and sometimes there was a few spits of water in the boot, other times just condensation uniformly everywhere in there with no puddles.
Then one rainy day I went out to drop some stuff for Mum and when I opened the boot, about half a L of water poured straight into the boot from the lid itself. At first I though it was just what collected on/in the garnish, before I realized it came out of the boot lid itself from the inside.
Found this! lol, this car is like the ultimate leak test mule, gives me all the impossibly hard and rare ways it can leak!
Since the cable isn't going to stop dripping any time soon and the weather just isn't given long enough breaks. I just popped the sticky tape on the boot lid drain holes in each corner to allow it to drain and not fill up. It's much better, but still musty though. I see water there on the cable each day since I found this, so it will probably something I'll have to sort one weekend in the shed by popping the garnish off again and cut the PVC tubing insulation off near the grommet, blow it clean and dry on that little section with the blow gun, then seal it off with epoxy or maybe even that mastic will do I think. I can report that the car leaks nowhere else, not in the same sense as this, other than a slight ingress of dampness around the rear bumper air vent seals. Seals are good there, but as dust has got between the seals over the decades, it allows that dust to act as a wick, so very occasionally, I see some dribbles. I have tossed an old rag there and it at least completely stops it going under the spare tyre now. To sort that out properly, I would have to remove the bumper, pop out those vents, wash it all nicely and put a light coat of petroleum jell to give a good seal. But I can't be fucked at this point lol.
In other news, the ignition leads eventually arrived after 3.5 weeks. So the car should run now, I haven't tested it though as I want to run the car on the road and do a drop on the initial ATF run in, but the weather is shit and the whole place is a mud pit. I want to keep the car clean and dry for some cavity wax work at the rear beaver when I drop the bumper off and sort the mudflaps at the same time.
Anyway, the Topgun leads are pretty inexpensive at 58 bucks, where the Eagle ones I usually used to get at around 35-50 bucks are now asking north of 150, tellem they're dreamin!
The Eagles ones look of better quality than the Topgun ones for sure, but the TG ones are plenty good enough I reckon, Eagles certainly not even remotely worth their asking price. I like the TG ones being all black, OEM look and not the ugly bright blue Eagle use.
I measured around 600R on the shorter leads from this set, my old ones were multiple K on the shortest ones, and I think several on the longest ones, so no wonder they were misfiring. I suspect that the humidity over time diffused into the lead's silicone and caused them to change properties to become non functional, as the factory ones are carbon fiber cores, where aftermarket typically use a spire wire wound core which doesn't increase in resistance over time, and I think that moisture content in the leads failed them, as the engine ran perfect when parked. The humidity is near and up to almost 100% 24/7 for like most of the year. Everything gets dew in that shed, I had to resort to portable fans in front of cars to lower the dew point as much as I could. My fan actually died a few weeks ago after 24/7 for more than a year. I need some new ones, but though I would have my cars moved to town by now. So if I get some, they will only be a temp measure, but I think I need to as I am getting white oxide crystals growing out of the alloy parts on some of the cars since the fan died.
When I finally managed to get to Bunnings (none locally... yet) I made these. About 20 bucks for materials for the pair. Extendable polls basically with a bolt and nut to lock it at the right length.
With those I got this sorted. Like an actual glove. Nothing touches anywhere on the box, except for the straps obviously.
I am finding those cheap rotors to be very good actually, they don't seem to suffer from the super heavy and deep pitting from an over night's rain where the pad sits. Often these pits from a single heavy rain go easily 1/4 or maybe up to 1/2mm deep and take 10s of 1000s of Km to wear off, some were still there from I think Dec 2023 where we has an afternoon of flash flooding just before xmas. Not sure why that kept happening with my last rotors, some galvanic/chemical erosion? Safe to say these rotors do not suffer the same issue as we have had tons of rain lately and I didn't drive anywhere for a week, so there was ample time with water washing the rotors, only gets a light surface rust and slight staining on the pad area that all rubs off after a drive or few, nothing really sub surface. I originally thought it was something in the pads that became super acidic when water got on them, but I now know it was the rotor's susceptibility rather than the pads alone.
Speaking of water, this car is taking the piss. I was still getting moisture in the shitbox with no clear source and sometimes there was a few spits of water in the boot, other times just condensation uniformly everywhere in there with no puddles.
Then one rainy day I went out to drop some stuff for Mum and when I opened the boot, about half a L of water poured straight into the boot from the lid itself. At first I though it was just what collected on/in the garnish, before I realized it came out of the boot lid itself from the inside.
Found this! lol, this car is like the ultimate leak test mule, gives me all the impossibly hard and rare ways it can leak!
Since the cable isn't going to stop dripping any time soon and the weather just isn't given long enough breaks. I just popped the sticky tape on the boot lid drain holes in each corner to allow it to drain and not fill up. It's much better, but still musty though. I see water there on the cable each day since I found this, so it will probably something I'll have to sort one weekend in the shed by popping the garnish off again and cut the PVC tubing insulation off near the grommet, blow it clean and dry on that little section with the blow gun, then seal it off with epoxy or maybe even that mastic will do I think. I can report that the car leaks nowhere else, not in the same sense as this, other than a slight ingress of dampness around the rear bumper air vent seals. Seals are good there, but as dust has got between the seals over the decades, it allows that dust to act as a wick, so very occasionally, I see some dribbles. I have tossed an old rag there and it at least completely stops it going under the spare tyre now. To sort that out properly, I would have to remove the bumper, pop out those vents, wash it all nicely and put a light coat of petroleum jell to give a good seal. But I can't be fucked at this point lol.
In other news, the ignition leads eventually arrived after 3.5 weeks. So the car should run now, I haven't tested it though as I want to run the car on the road and do a drop on the initial ATF run in, but the weather is shit and the whole place is a mud pit. I want to keep the car clean and dry for some cavity wax work at the rear beaver when I drop the bumper off and sort the mudflaps at the same time.
Anyway, the Topgun leads are pretty inexpensive at 58 bucks, where the Eagle ones I usually used to get at around 35-50 bucks are now asking north of 150, tellem they're dreamin!
The Eagles ones look of better quality than the Topgun ones for sure, but the TG ones are plenty good enough I reckon, Eagles certainly not even remotely worth their asking price. I like the TG ones being all black, OEM look and not the ugly bright blue Eagle use.
I measured around 600R on the shorter leads from this set, my old ones were multiple K on the shortest ones, and I think several on the longest ones, so no wonder they were misfiring. I suspect that the humidity over time diffused into the lead's silicone and caused them to change properties to become non functional, as the factory ones are carbon fiber cores, where aftermarket typically use a spire wire wound core which doesn't increase in resistance over time, and I think that moisture content in the leads failed them, as the engine ran perfect when parked. The humidity is near and up to almost 100% 24/7 for like most of the year. Everything gets dew in that shed, I had to resort to portable fans in front of cars to lower the dew point as much as I could. My fan actually died a few weeks ago after 24/7 for more than a year. I need some new ones, but though I would have my cars moved to town by now. So if I get some, they will only be a temp measure, but I think I need to as I am getting white oxide crystals growing out of the alloy parts on some of the cars since the fan died.
When I finally managed to get to Bunnings (none locally... yet) I made these. About 20 bucks for materials for the pair. Extendable polls basically with a bolt and nut to lock it at the right length.
With those I got this sorted. Like an actual glove. Nothing touches anywhere on the box, except for the straps obviously.
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vlad01
- Posts: 8548
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VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2 - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Bought these from Rare's, package came crushed, open and one of the terminals was missing with half of the others still floating around in the opened padded bag. I sent them a message to let them know their courier sucked, but no response.
Anyway, luckily none of the terminals I actually needed were lost and worked well enough for what I needed them for.
I used the terminals to finish rebuilding my gearbox patch loom with the existing VSS plug.
These are the same family of connector (I still don't know which family though, nor the OG manufacture) as the fuel sender pump plug. Except the pump is two pin where these are 3 pin.
Despite the terminals being made for larger gauge wiring, not really suitable for the VSS wiring size, it worked good enough with careful strategic crimping techniques.
Sorted!
While I was there, I sorted some more wiring relates stuff.
Added these to the engine loom near the ECU to dash connectors.
Blue is flex A (for cruise control safety cutout relay to limit RPM in case of neutral engagement (like a neutral safety switch)).
Green is WB if needed (why not).
Red is serial for ALDL.
Made this as per my red VP.
Allows me to plug my ALDL cable in without stuffing around pulling the ECU out and adding temp wires to the ECU plug.
This also has paperclip protocol support and 12V+ for all of my needs. I don't bother with tach or fuel pump as I have literally never used those.
I got the VN/VP style ALDL plug from Jaydees as a grab kit for about 10 bucks iirc. They call it 90 series plugs. Nice having them instead of resorting to cutting off rear door loom pugs off cars at the wreckers to harvest the male plugs that fit the ALDL, then joining on the random coloured wired. So much nicer with brand new plugs. These did not exist when I last did this before covid.
Anyway, luckily none of the terminals I actually needed were lost and worked well enough for what I needed them for.
I used the terminals to finish rebuilding my gearbox patch loom with the existing VSS plug.
These are the same family of connector (I still don't know which family though, nor the OG manufacture) as the fuel sender pump plug. Except the pump is two pin where these are 3 pin.
Despite the terminals being made for larger gauge wiring, not really suitable for the VSS wiring size, it worked good enough with careful strategic crimping techniques.
Sorted!
While I was there, I sorted some more wiring relates stuff.
Added these to the engine loom near the ECU to dash connectors.
Blue is flex A (for cruise control safety cutout relay to limit RPM in case of neutral engagement (like a neutral safety switch)).
Green is WB if needed (why not).
Red is serial for ALDL.
Made this as per my red VP.
Allows me to plug my ALDL cable in without stuffing around pulling the ECU out and adding temp wires to the ECU plug.
This also has paperclip protocol support and 12V+ for all of my needs. I don't bother with tach or fuel pump as I have literally never used those.
I got the VN/VP style ALDL plug from Jaydees as a grab kit for about 10 bucks iirc. They call it 90 series plugs. Nice having them instead of resorting to cutting off rear door loom pugs off cars at the wreckers to harvest the male plugs that fit the ALDL, then joining on the random coloured wired. So much nicer with brand new plugs. These did not exist when I last did this before covid.
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vlad01
- Posts: 8548
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VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2 - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Got those installed and it all worked. (haven't confirmed the flex itself yet, need to do a road test)
So I got in the cruise loop the optical non contact switch module I had made and improved some from more than a decade ago that handles the clutch pedal since it has no physical stop as is fully floating. I had a few of these in the past and they worked flawlessly for years and even 100s of 1000s Ks in one car without an issues. I made it all plug and play via series daisy chain like connections to the existing switches and plugs. I added to that chain a relay that also derives it's power from the loop itself, so it doubly cuts the safety loop which I thought was a cleaver idea that also simplifies the wiring too. It is wired after the brake pedal switch so the brake which is the most common deactivation of the cruise kills the power to the relay too even it is is not directly switched off by the ECU. I did a diag mode test of the cruise while using the flex relay input to ground and it all seems to work correctly.
So I got in the cruise loop the optical non contact switch module I had made and improved some from more than a decade ago that handles the clutch pedal since it has no physical stop as is fully floating. I had a few of these in the past and they worked flawlessly for years and even 100s of 1000s Ks in one car without an issues. I made it all plug and play via series daisy chain like connections to the existing switches and plugs. I added to that chain a relay that also derives it's power from the loop itself, so it doubly cuts the safety loop which I thought was a cleaver idea that also simplifies the wiring too. It is wired after the brake pedal switch so the brake which is the most common deactivation of the cruise kills the power to the relay too even it is is not directly switched off by the ECU. I did a diag mode test of the cruise while using the flex relay input to ground and it all seems to work correctly.
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vlad01
- Posts: 8548
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VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2 - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Progress has been a bit slow the last few weeks, bit under the weather in the literal sense. Winter sucks the joy and motivation of me and that worsens my existing health condition.
None the less, I decided rather than waiting to get bits to get the front end started or even finished in a timely fashion. I reconnected the tie rods and dropped the car down, did a dirty by eye wheel alignment (usually get them almost in spec
)
I started working on getting the dash side of things back together, but I wasn't happy with the condition of the plastic frame where all the surround and trims attach, the attachment points were basically fucked.
So this is my solution. I have not finished them yet, a few more to go. But I am genuinely impressed and surprised with how much metal working skills I have picked up seemingly out of nowhere the last year or so on this car.
I formed these sandwich repair plates out of zincalum sheeting I get from the local hardware's sheet metal side business. I epoxy both sides, carefully drill and place rivets in selected spots to repair and reinforce the area better than factory.
None the less, I decided rather than waiting to get bits to get the front end started or even finished in a timely fashion. I reconnected the tie rods and dropped the car down, did a dirty by eye wheel alignment (usually get them almost in spec
) I started working on getting the dash side of things back together, but I wasn't happy with the condition of the plastic frame where all the surround and trims attach, the attachment points were basically fucked.
So this is my solution. I have not finished them yet, a few more to go. But I am genuinely impressed and surprised with how much metal working skills I have picked up seemingly out of nowhere the last year or so on this car.
I formed these sandwich repair plates out of zincalum sheeting I get from the local hardware's sheet metal side business. I epoxy both sides, carefully drill and place rivets in selected spots to repair and reinforce the area better than factory.
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vlad01
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VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2 - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
I made this one last night for the worst and often prone area. Got it right the first go too, how good! Still need to epoxy and install it, got too tired and called it a night.
Using nothing fancy. Just a vice and straight file as the forming tool for wider sections, for narrower areas were things don't get in the way, I use those sheet metal vice grips. Mine is an ALDI special!
Angle grinder for cutting, verniers for measuring and scoring marks, drill for drilly stuff and the same files I bend on, clean up the flashing from the grinder. It is tedious and slow, but I find it easy and oddly satisfying.
Also sorted these holes out. Short rivets to plug them, bashed them a bit with a planishing hammer to lower that profile, clean up and some sikaflex on it. Prime, and just some black paint I had laying around. I didn't have any deadener, so that was going to have to do. But I am confident that will be weather proof.
Using nothing fancy. Just a vice and straight file as the forming tool for wider sections, for narrower areas were things don't get in the way, I use those sheet metal vice grips. Mine is an ALDI special!
Angle grinder for cutting, verniers for measuring and scoring marks, drill for drilly stuff and the same files I bend on, clean up the flashing from the grinder. It is tedious and slow, but I find it easy and oddly satisfying.
Also sorted these holes out. Short rivets to plug them, bashed them a bit with a planishing hammer to lower that profile, clean up and some sikaflex on it. Prime, and just some black paint I had laying around. I didn't have any deadener, so that was going to have to do. But I am confident that will be weather proof.
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vlad01
- Posts: 8548
- Joined: Mon Oct 08, 2012 8:41 am
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VP I executive
VP II executive
VP II executive #2 - Location: Kyneton, Vic
Re: Vlad's rides thread
Got my guard liners pressure washed and installed, and I went ahead and installed the front mud flaps that my partner bought me for either my bday or xmas 3 years ago I think.
Nicely made.
The only screw in the kit that wasn't like the OG was for this strap. So I am on a hut for one off ebay as locally there was nothing. I want the same sized one as the guard screws just a short one. It came with one that was 3? sizes smaller and I think it is a bit piss weak for this spot. I have my VP S to copy from as it has the factory original genuine flaps on there.
You can also see how far off the two random holes where from the factory type flaps (bottom black area left of the plastic liner) . None of the holes were even remotely close to the genuine locations, even when I moved the strap over them. So these flaps nicely covered those unsightly ones in the guard left over from what I assume was some super cheap auto generic special someone installed and later removed from the car. Oddly, there was no holes on the driver's side inner guard, only two on the pass side. I guess the left made up for the lack of holes on the right!
I have also done the pilot holes in my new rear rotors for the handbrake adjustment hole and it's two smaller balancing holes. But I am looking for someone local I can use their drill press as I can't hold a drill straight by eye for the life of me.
This is pretty much where I am at currently.
Nicely made.
The only screw in the kit that wasn't like the OG was for this strap. So I am on a hut for one off ebay as locally there was nothing. I want the same sized one as the guard screws just a short one. It came with one that was 3? sizes smaller and I think it is a bit piss weak for this spot. I have my VP S to copy from as it has the factory original genuine flaps on there.
You can also see how far off the two random holes where from the factory type flaps (bottom black area left of the plastic liner) . None of the holes were even remotely close to the genuine locations, even when I moved the strap over them. So these flaps nicely covered those unsightly ones in the guard left over from what I assume was some super cheap auto generic special someone installed and later removed from the car. Oddly, there was no holes on the driver's side inner guard, only two on the pass side. I guess the left made up for the lack of holes on the right!
I have also done the pilot holes in my new rear rotors for the handbrake adjustment hole and it's two smaller balancing holes. But I am looking for someone local I can use their drill press as I can't hold a drill straight by eye for the life of me.
This is pretty much where I am at currently.
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immortality
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Re: Vlad's rides thread
What alloy idler pulley is that mate?