Cold Start Tuning Help
- VL400
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
Code 36 is more an idle run-away flag, which often is the effect of a vacuum leak. If the closed loop idle speed control is not able to keep the RPM within the programmed range for an amount of time it sets the code.
- V8hilux
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
I have 383 and running bluetops. I set the kinjflow at .18
and idle ve is ballpark of 45%ve
prolly doesn't help you thou.
and idle ve is ballpark of 45%ve
prolly doesn't help you thou.
- V8hilux
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
holy cow batman, just watched the log... the way the map needle swings around...
Spose you pulled all the plugs and looked, fuel pump and filter not blocked... no Coles bag floating around in the fuel tank and blocking pickup..no mud wasp nest rolling around in the map vacuum hose.. lol.
Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on while it does the mad rev up and down?
Have the fuel lines on the right way.? a guy on aussiev8 had his running with hoses on wrong way took him months to find.
Are you sure it's the tune? or could it be mechanical? There was a good write up somewhere about vacuum gauge to diagnose problems somewhere.
You must have a big cam there, with idle at 60 odd map...or a nice big vac leak mine is on 40 at idle but small 220 odd@50
I could post my rough tune through to try... mine idles ok but maybe your big cam might not work on my tune.
does it do all that hunting with the diagnostic earthed?

Spose you pulled all the plugs and looked, fuel pump and filter not blocked... no Coles bag floating around in the fuel tank and blocking pickup..no mud wasp nest rolling around in the map vacuum hose.. lol.
Have you had a fuel pressure gauge on while it does the mad rev up and down?
Have the fuel lines on the right way.? a guy on aussiev8 had his running with hoses on wrong way took him months to find.
Are you sure it's the tune? or could it be mechanical? There was a good write up somewhere about vacuum gauge to diagnose problems somewhere.
You must have a big cam there, with idle at 60 odd map...or a nice big vac leak mine is on 40 at idle but small 220 odd@50
I could post my rough tune through to try... mine idles ok but maybe your big cam might not work on my tune.
does it do all that hunting with the diagnostic earthed?
- muttley383
- Posts: 83
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- cars: VR 383 stroker
Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
It does not really hunt once up to normal temperature and it idles @ 40kpa.
You may be viewing the log with the wrong .adx file in TP.
Plugs are new and I did not think of letting it warm up in diagnostic mode.
You may be viewing the log with the wrong .adx file in TP.
Plugs are new and I did not think of letting it warm up in diagnostic mode.
- V8hilux
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
I also read somewhere about putting a restricter in the map hose so the map doesn't get all the cam pulses?
- V8hilux
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
Maybe I was seeing the dash different due to my own settings, I still dont know how to look at someone elses log as they see it?muttley383 wrote:It does not really hunt once up to normal temperature and it idles @ 40kpa.
You may be viewing the log with the wrong .adx file in TP.
Plugs are new and I did not think of letting it warm up in diagnostic mode.
- V8hilux
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
I accidently fouled a brand new plug (hour running old) by too rich...don't rule it out without looking.muttley383 wrote:Plugs are new and I did not think of letting it warm up in diagnostic mode.
- Holden202T
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
try this tune and see if it makes any difference to the hunting....
main changes are smoothing out the idle spark and main spark table transitions .... you'll notice in your file the idle spark numbers are different to the 400-800-1200 main spark numbers, normally what i do is make the idle and main spark numbers the same in those areas and then you get alot less spark advance variation at idle which all help smooth it out.
you can see in the log, even when the idle is smoothish the spark is up and down like a roller coaster!
fueling at idle if anything looks rich so i don't think thats causing you issues. alot of cammed 304's i've tuned needed more fuel and spark at idle but they were only around 13:1 so yours should be fine where it is.
as far as your VE numbers go, i wouldn't be too concerned about the actual number in the ve table, the end result is you want to have the highest VE points at 100kpa at about 85-90 .... if you are much higher than that you need to adjust the injector rate to get it down .... and aslong as the idle ve's arn't at zero they should be ok! your WOT is pretty rich and i dare say when you get it more dialled in you'll be able to offset the injrate to get it alot closer to the mark at 100kpa and that in turn will bring up the idle ve's.
but also make sure if your trying to tune idle fueling you use the commanded and compare the wideband against it, because when you come to a stop it will be commanding 14.7 and then after the time period defined in the tune (i think 20sec is default) it will switch to the idle AFR maps and they are more like 13.5 so just keep that in mind when your tweaking!
the only other thing i can think of at this time is the map readings .... i would be double checking everything because your map trace is very strange .... eg. when your at 85% throttle your map sensor still isn't at 100kpa, i would have expected to see it at 100kpa with alot less throttle opening ... i dunno maybe thats just a stroker for ya
.. worth checking anyways.
please note if this is full of typos i blame the fact that its late and i've had a very nice 2007 shiraz
main changes are smoothing out the idle spark and main spark table transitions .... you'll notice in your file the idle spark numbers are different to the 400-800-1200 main spark numbers, normally what i do is make the idle and main spark numbers the same in those areas and then you get alot less spark advance variation at idle which all help smooth it out.
you can see in the log, even when the idle is smoothish the spark is up and down like a roller coaster!
fueling at idle if anything looks rich so i don't think thats causing you issues. alot of cammed 304's i've tuned needed more fuel and spark at idle but they were only around 13:1 so yours should be fine where it is.
as far as your VE numbers go, i wouldn't be too concerned about the actual number in the ve table, the end result is you want to have the highest VE points at 100kpa at about 85-90 .... if you are much higher than that you need to adjust the injector rate to get it down .... and aslong as the idle ve's arn't at zero they should be ok! your WOT is pretty rich and i dare say when you get it more dialled in you'll be able to offset the injrate to get it alot closer to the mark at 100kpa and that in turn will bring up the idle ve's.
but also make sure if your trying to tune idle fueling you use the commanded and compare the wideband against it, because when you come to a stop it will be commanding 14.7 and then after the time period defined in the tune (i think 20sec is default) it will switch to the idle AFR maps and they are more like 13.5 so just keep that in mind when your tweaking!
the only other thing i can think of at this time is the map readings .... i would be double checking everything because your map trace is very strange .... eg. when your at 85% throttle your map sensor still isn't at 100kpa, i would have expected to see it at 100kpa with alot less throttle opening ... i dunno maybe thats just a stroker for ya

please note if this is full of typos i blame the fact that its late and i've had a very nice 2007 shiraz

No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower! 
Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread

Just starting out? Have a read of the getting started guide
Basic tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
Advanced tuning of a delco ECM with $12P thread
- V8hilux
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Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
yeah, smoothing out works.
I found I had a little hunt at idle as the map went from 40 at the 800 rpm line then to the 50 in the 600rpm line and kept going up and down like yours.
It stopped straight away when I changed all the cells from 600rpm to 1000 rpm and from 0 map to 50 map to all the same number and had the 2 idle spark maps the same degree for those revs (a bit below and a bit above the idle rpm) that stopped the change as it went from one cell to another. Probably wrong but worked for me.
I found I had a little hunt at idle as the map went from 40 at the 800 rpm line then to the 50 in the 600rpm line and kept going up and down like yours.
It stopped straight away when I changed all the cells from 600rpm to 1000 rpm and from 0 map to 50 map to all the same number and had the 2 idle spark maps the same degree for those revs (a bit below and a bit above the idle rpm) that stopped the change as it went from one cell to another. Probably wrong but worked for me.
- V8hilux
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- Location: Inverell Northern NSW
Re: Cold Start Tuning Help
I had to bin my map hose and get a new one, poxy thing went soft and colapsed when it got warm.