yeah got to be careful not to lift pads by too much heat or force if not hot enough so I found it very difficult!
but I'm not fine electronic part proficient but been told there easier measures to doing it, but haven't put it to the test yet!
VL RB30 NA
-
VX L67 Getrag
- Posts: 2971
- Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:16 am
- Location: Bayside, Melbourne, Victoria
-
charlay86
- Posts: 586
- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:00 am
- cars: VT S1 SS (L67)
- Location: Perth, WA
Re: VL RB30 NA
if you aren't interested in keeping the chip you are pulling out, get some nice pointy flush cutters and snip each pin off close to the body of the chip (so you have something to hang onto when you pull the pin out),
then remove the pins one by one.
then remove the pins one by one.
-
antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10016
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:34 am
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam 8psi
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B
Subaru WRX 2007
Re: VL RB30 NA
Charlays option is good, so probably go with that.
But for the record solder wick is useful to have on hand too:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS3028
Just lay a run of it across all the pins on one side and heat each pin one by one. It literally sucks all the solder off the pin and out of the through hole and then you move to the next pin. If you have a temperature controlled soldering iron you can do it without damaging the eprom by keeping it cooler (though its still somewhat risky), and if you have a basic iron the chip will probably overheat and die but you'll be able to get it out in one piece without damaging the pcb. It'll also clear out the holes well so the socket should drop in easier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htrcZuK_ZsY
But for the record solder wick is useful to have on hand too:
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=NS3028
Just lay a run of it across all the pins on one side and heat each pin one by one. It literally sucks all the solder off the pin and out of the through hole and then you move to the next pin. If you have a temperature controlled soldering iron you can do it without damaging the eprom by keeping it cooler (though its still somewhat risky), and if you have a basic iron the chip will probably overheat and die but you'll be able to get it out in one piece without damaging the pcb. It'll also clear out the holes well so the socket should drop in easier.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htrcZuK_ZsY
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
-
VX L67 Getrag
- Posts: 2971
- Joined: Sun Aug 02, 2009 11:16 am
- Location: Bayside, Melbourne, Victoria
Re: VL RB30 NA
Need a steady hand, fine soldering iron tip & patience!
B.T.W. whats modified in the engine to need tuning?
I do have a spare VL PCM thats supposedly faulty I can look at taking the eeprom out of, but not sure how useful this will be other than to see how easy it is?
EDIT: That you tube vid is pretty damn good & goes to show how a good wick makes a difference as the wick I got didn't come close to sucking up like that even with fresh solder applied!
B.T.W. whats modified in the engine to need tuning?
I do have a spare VL PCM thats supposedly faulty I can look at taking the eeprom out of, but not sure how useful this will be other than to see how easy it is?
EDIT: That you tube vid is pretty damn good & goes to show how a good wick makes a difference as the wick I got didn't come close to sucking up like that even with fresh solder applied!
-
antus
- Site Admin
- Posts: 10016
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:34 am
- cars: TX Gemini 2L Twincam 8psi
TX Gemini SR20 18psi
Datsun 1200 Ute
Subaru Blitzen '06 EZ30 4th gen, 3.0R Spec B
Subaru WRX 2007
Re: VL RB30 NA
Yeah solder wick tarnishes if its been sitting around too long and stops working. It helps to get it from a reputable electronics store, if you get it from somewhere like dick smiths chances are its been sitting on the shelf for 2 years and wont even work by the time you get it, even if its a good brand like goot wick.
Have you read the FAQ? For lots of information and links to significant threads see here: http://pcmhacking.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1396
-
engybenjy
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:55 pm
- cars: All makes and models/ dyno shop
- Location: Benalla
Re: VL RB30 NA
The VL has had the throttle body done and the cam and compression, what it is there is about 5 guys that have VL autos and they race them against each other at Winton so its just a bit of fun, (that is now getting competitive) they have them going alright but it would be nice to take it up a notch and give the engine tuning a bit more scope. He has a spare computer so we will be ok there thanks. I will have a crack at it when he gets it over to me.
-
VL400
- Posts: 4991
- Joined: Sun Mar 01, 2009 4:54 am
- cars: VL Calais and Toyota Landcruiser. Plus some toys :)
- Location: Perth, WA
Re: VL RB30 NA
I would use the method charlay86 suggested and snip each pin and extract them individually. Then go along with Goot wick and remove the excess solder.
-
Jayme
- Posts: 2585
- Joined: Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:59 pm
- Location: North Coast, NSW
Re: VL RB30 NA
I had a cammed VL motor with raised compression come by a while ago, I just upped the rev limit and dropped the timing in places to stop some pinging and it went like a rocket. all done blind with no logging and not realtime, coming home to swap out chips and reburn with the gq-4x 
-
engybenjy
- Posts: 55
- Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:55 pm
- cars: All makes and models/ dyno shop
- Location: Benalla
Re: VL RB30 NA
OK so I have the spare computer and before I go pulling bits out of it can someone tell me that this is the memcal that I need to remove? I am keen to try and desolder it so that I can read the chip and start from there.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-
charlay86
- Posts: 586
- Joined: Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:00 am
- cars: VT S1 SS (L67)
- Location: Perth, WA