I would like to correct the previous post above with the injector offsets, they are not quite correct, so I have listed below what I believe to be the correct ones for both 60 and 80lb seimens dekas!

- battery injector bias table comparison.jpg (120.28 KiB) Viewed 30029 times
Edit by Antus: The first table pictured is "Injector - Injector Bias vs Battery Voltage" and the second "Injector - Injector bias add-on vs Injector pulse width". Also note Holden202T has configured the tables to display the other way around, make the values on the left hand side line up when using this information.
please note, these are the two tables in $12P ... other code bases might have different labels or such.
Now as far as working out the AFR table goes, mostly what I work with is factory from holden with the only exceptions being a few cars I have tuned with way to big of a cam for the street, and they would surge at light throttle and low rpms, so to fix this and to stop it going into closed loop in these cases I have changed the AFR table from 14.7's to 14.4's and in one case 14.2's .... this was required till approx. 2000rpm, but is also depending on the cam size etc.
now in a normal practical example where the cam isn't too big

you should be able to leave pretty much all the settings as per Holden, but you might want to change some areas, so for my car with methanol I found 5.2 AFR at WOT was the most suitable, but then when I tuned a V6 sprint car we got the WOT AFR's to 5.2 (by tuning the VE table) then we experimented with 5, 4.8 and 4.6 AFR's and the end result for them was 4.8 made more power. the added advantage of this is the cooling effect and the fact that your running the car really rich so its safe!
BUT, there are other factors, for a drag car you probably want to get the best power AFR because you really aren't getting it hot enough to hurt anything, but then if it was a track car or like a speedway car that might do 50 laps on the loud pedal the whole time, then you obviously want to make it a bit richer and maybe sacrifice 2hp to get a motor that lasts to the end without hurting anything or overheating!
The long and the short of it, the AFR table is a pretty good and probably safe starting point and you don't really need to touch it, but if you want to experiment with different numbers you might find you can gain some power or economy, because obviously too rich chews the fuel so for a street car you don't want to run it at 12.4 AFR you might be better off with 12.8 or even 13 in some motors.
also a lot of more so new cars do things like stupidly richening the WOT fuel to safe guard the motor and also to make it kill off a bit of power ... just simply changing this stuff can see a marked improvement in economy if your seeing power enrichment a lot!
and lastly, I thought i'd take a video to show you v6bucket how my car starts on a 15 degree day on methanol

like I said struggles to get going but once it does runs smooth as a babys bottom!
[youtube]
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdlhAClR7dE[/youtube]