Vlad's rides thread

[vlad01]

be a holden block and the real small M62 charger from the states.if its the real deal it will have the same conrods as a vr engine they are bigger and stronger but also heavier

VR had bigger rods?

[delcowizzid]

vr's ended up with the same rods as the S/C engine in the states open up a vn-vp and a vr engine youll see the difference LOL
1991–1995:
Buick Park Avenue Ultra

1992–1995:
Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight LS (opt), LSS (opt)
Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Regency Elite (opt), Touring Sedan
Pontiac Bonneville SE with H4U RPO, not badged - SLE (opt. SC package), SSE (opt) & SSEi

1995 Only:
Buick Riviera(Opt)

[vlad01]

yea ive looked at the wiki page many a time but ive been un able to definatively identify what series the vn s2 and vp engine is and whether there was a supercharged version of it untill seeing this just wondering what it sould possibly be off of closest i could think of was a 95 buick park riviera i think

VN s2 - VP are series 1 L27, VR is just a revised version but still the same model engine.

early Vn is LN3 (pre series 1 for US people)

And a side note, holden retained the LN3 alloy manifold across the range where the US went for plastic banana for the series 1 L27, which is good cos those plastic manifolds in the states were known to be shit and crack, potentially hydro locking the engine with coolant leaking in.
Holden did this so it would fit the RWD engine bay we have not the common FWD application that was in the sates.

haha FWD!

what were they thinking?

[vlad01]

vr's ended up with the same rods as the S/C engine in the states open up a vn-vp and a vr engine youll see the difference LOL
1991–1995:
Buick Park Avenue Ultra

1992–1995:
Oldsmobile Eighty-Eight LS (opt), LSS (opt)
Oldsmobile Ninety-Eight Regency Elite (opt), Touring Sedan
Pontiac Bonneville SE with H4U RPO, not badged - SLE (opt. SC package), SSE (opt) & SSEi

1995 Only:
Buick Riviera(Opt)

I had open the top end of my VR and they are vastly different and improved over the VN-VP engines. The even sound more angry and revy.

[vlad01]

I had a small dent ont middle of the rear section of the roof right on the edge of the support frame that is glued across the roof skin.

Found a new trick to lifting dents out, a blow torch!

I just heat it to the right amount localized to the middle of the dent until its expands upwards a little above the level of the surrounding metal, then I let it cool. Once cool the metal shrinks back down but stays very so slightly raised above the rest of the metal and can easily be hit with the panel file and flatten out. The more heat the more it lifts up and stays up.

IMG_0755_zps9942e9a8.jpg (57.18 KiB) Viewed 4403 times

came out perfect! small video.

http://s1015.photobucket.com/user/vladk ... b.mp4.html

got to this spot, no dolly would fit in there. So I tried the old heating trick and got only so far. the dent was tiny but very sharp and deep.

IMG_0757_zpsaac9dfe1.jpg (54.78 KiB) Viewed 4403 times

so lead fill time

I got the proper body lead tinning paste and filler rods from consolidated alloys in Thomastown. The stuff is manufactured so old school the brochure was printed in the 60s lol

Anyway this stuff works real well and is easy to use.

IMG_0760_zps09075f96.jpg (58.24 KiB) Viewed 4403 times

filed to final finish.

IMG_0759_zpsb55f7a4d.jpg (68.84 KiB) Viewed 4403 times

With these newly learned tricks I can tackle the 2 dents on the left rocker panel now. Might also try lightly heating some very subtle low spots in the 2 major roof panels beating I had show few pages back.

its coming up Milhouse

Have also noticed the shit the job was at the front right corner of the car, things are a little hacked and still a bit wonky. I reckon once I have my argon gas and some consumables for the TIG topped up and also somehow access a spot welder I am going to cut and splice in the whole front radiator support with some of the battery box, inner fender where the battery is and both headlight support sections. Looks fairly straight forwards as the spot welds are minimal in the way I plan to do it, hardest part is to TIG weld the section in the inner fender.

Doing it that way will allow me to hit few birds with one stone. Good learning process anyway.

[delcowizzid]

i used to take dents out with jumper leads and the carbon centre rod out of an old round telephone 1.5V battery http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3192/2425 ... e78b_z.jpg .positive earth the car body with a jumper lead and negative the carbon rod and you can heat a little spot or a larger area by rubbing the rod on the panel then cool the inside of the dent with a wet rag poink out pops the dents to perfect . ive used this to fix deep small dents in a rear 1/4 panel after someone left a crowbar in the boot sliding from one side to the other great oldschool trick

[vlad01]

i used to take dents out with jumper leads and the carbon centre rod out of an old round telephone 1.5V battery http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3192/2425 ... e78b_z.jpg .positive earth the car body with a jumper lead and negative the carbon rod and you can heat a little spot or a larger area by rubbing the rod on the panel then cool the inside of the dent with a wet rag poink out pops the dents to perfect . ive used this to fix deep small dents in a rear 1/4 panel after someone left a crowbar in the boot sliding from one side to the other great oldschool trick

awesome! I will try the wet rag on the inside in addition to what I am already doing.

[Holden202T]

theres no doubt about ya delcowizzid lol!!

first time i ever saw that wet rag trick i thought it was magic

[vlad01]

I really must try it! does it work in proportion to heat applied? Looking at lifting very subtle broadish low spots is I can

[VK_3800]

The appropriate heating and cooling will bring anything out as long as its controlled right. Be careful about side effects though especially on large areas like the roof, its easy to get carried away and warp the whole thing - then you'll have plenty to practice on!