Vlad's rides thread

[vlad01]

nope, actually VR from Oz.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/350688567130 ... 1423.l2649

[vlad01]

So some stuff arrived from the platers which means i got 2 parts finished in one night that were waiting for several weeks otherwise.


new custom made viton seals on freshly plated sender unit.

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completed unit with new genuine strainer fitted to the original pump.

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starter with new bearing throughout including the illusive 6904WD front bearing. Only 30 each! I bought 3 for spares because it was so hard to source them. they have an internal bushing on the ID

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more to come latter.

[vlad01]

[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0eetPcr-QQ[/youtube]


so this is what the engine will vibrate like without a balance shaft? I spun the shaft alone to induce the vibration it normally counters. Doesn't seem that bad really. when I hold onto it its just a gentle vibration at lower rpm and not much noticeable at higher rpm.

I am going to leave it out, I found the raspy noise is at the rear needle bearings when turing by hand. There is nothing wrong with the bearing or sleeve on the shaft from what I can see, just makes a annoying sound when it turns.


anyway some pics of the engine on my new stand I got today.

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test fitting my rollmaster set

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sludge trap in the oil filter adapter

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and in the front cover

IMG_1017_zpsd099254a.jpg (97.63 KiB) Viewed 4670 times

[Holden202T]

yeah from what I've heard the balance shaft being removed only really makes a vibration at low revs, and apparently if you can increase the idle slightly it goes away.

the question I'd have, what engine rpms are the vibration you saw .... was your drill at full speed way to fast etc ?

[vlad01]

I ran the drill way down to what I judged as idle speed, probably lower. The balance shaft spins -1:1 with the crank.

you could see the dip stick vibrating, but holding the block with your hand its minimal at its worst. Mind you the engine stand allows the engine to bounce around very easy, so in a car with stock hydraulic mounts, I doubt you even notice it.

after much searching the net for months to try to find someone who has actually removed one and posted the results (not just claiming all kinds of things and hasn't actually done it)
I found one guy on JC forum who against all the people advising him not to, he pulled it out and posted that is was a fantastic success with 0 vibration noticed. it was in a VR engine too.

out of the hundreds of threads, this one was the only one who someone actually did it, not just 10 pages of arm chair mechanics arguing about what happens when you do pull the shaft.

[FXST02]

Vlad,


What did you use to block off the oil gallery at the back of the balance shaft?

[The1]

Your video above just makes this link below more concrete

the zzp link explains it best ive seen so far, its really just to cancel noise and vibration at idle, any kind of balancing would obviously be done on the crank itself or balancer/flex plate. Ive lost count of the times ive been told my engine would blow up if i didn't get the crank balanced after removing the balancer, when in fact the balancer at higher RPM makes things worse. Obviously getting your bottom end balanced and throwing the balancer in the bin is the best option.

http://www.zzperformance.com/blog/engin ... nce-shaft/

[delcowizzid]

hundreds of people run without the balance shaft i allways remove or disconnect them

[vlad01]

Vlad,


What did you use to block off the oil gallery at the back of the balance shaft?

there is no oil galleries in L27 engine to block. they runner needle rollers on the rear and single row ball bearing on the front.

L36,L26 and L67,L32 use oil fed plain bearing on the rear and same ball bearing on the front, thus rear need to be plugged

[vlad01]

Your video above just makes this link below more concrete

the zzp link explains it best ive seen so far, its really just to cancel noise and vibration at idle, any kind of balancing would obviously be done on the crank itself or balancer/flex plate. Ive lost count of the times ive been told my engine would blow up if i didn't get the crank balanced after removing the balancer, when in fact the balancer at higher RPM makes things worse. Obviously getting your bottom end balanced and throwing the balancer in the bin is the best option.

http://www.zzperformance.com/blog/engin ... nce-shaft/

Thats right, the primary order out of balance that the 90º V6 suffer can not be eliminated. The forces induced on the bearings and block are there regardless if there is a shaft or not, the shaft actually produces mirrored forces to counter movement (vibration ) of the block. It does not counter forces seen at the crank at all, period.

So really the only benefits is reduced NVH. Removing it will not cause any problems to the engine, in fact it will increase valve train life because there isn't that massive inertia of the shaft to deal with anymore, which I believe is the cause of the relatively short life of the stock chain and sprocket.


a bonus bit of info is that the 60º also suffers from 1s order imbalance but because of the more natural 60º flying pin design is much less vibration and is just kept to a minimum with good engine mounts. They do not run a shaft normally.