CF Bedford Van

[delcowizzid]

the shaft is the perfect diameter to thread as is no need to turn it down before threading but it does only suit 1 thread ill find out off the vb owner what thread we had put on.they just held the shaft in the vice and tapped on the thread

[Holden202T]

well 7/16 is the rose joint size I want to put on it, any bigger wont fit my brake pedal .... and 7/16 uses an approx. 11mm shaft .....

the commodore shaft I measured at 14.2mm .... so I am going to assume your using a 9/16 die which is pretty spot on ....

if I could get a rose joint with a 7/16 hole in the ball and a larger than 7/16 thread in the end of it I would be happy but I can't....

i'll see how I go if I can't work something out I might have to modify the brake pedal and I'd prefer not to do that .... so would the engineer

I also have an LH Torana booster here, its got a 12.7mm shaft I think it was ... so its getting closer hehehe

[HQ355]

You can cut the end off the torana booster and weld it on the commodore, I've done it before and it's a fairly common conversion over on gmh-torana forum, don't know what the engineer will think of it but if you know how to do it properly ( not just but them together and weld ) it's just as strong as standard

[slewinson]

Considering the rod will be in compression it should be easy to engineer a simple solution. One way would be to make a cutter that trims down the OD of the shaft so you can thead it. Other way is to fabricate a sleeve that takes a rose joint with a male thread on the shank and is a slip fit over the booster shaft. A couple of holes in the side and rosette welds or a roll pin and loctite should suffice. I am assuming the rose joint and thread are for alignment and fine adjustment of length. I would think a blind socket about 15-20mm deep for the booster pushrod would be adequate.

Simon

[Holden202T]

the problem will welding in place is getting the shaft too hot, the end of the shaft that goes into the booster is going into plastic/Bakelite and has a rubber seal on the end of it so I don't want to damage any of that stuff....

there are plenty of ways that will work and surely one of them has to suit the engineer

the pedal is a U shape, with the open ends facing the firewall, so the rose joint slots nicely into it (7/16 anyways) and yes the rose joint is for getting the pushrod length spot on .... as well as being a solid joint that should not be able to slip out of place.

the male rose joint thread is certainly another good option too, could easily get a hex bar drilled and tapped to suit 7/16 in one end and larger on the other end, as is a cutter that can turn down the outside ... I know my mate has that sort of stuff at his workshop for cutting valve stem seal seats, not sure if they'd be long enough though.

one way or the other i'll make something work

my brother has my old VZ ute, I got him to measure the length of it and he says its 11 inch, my measurement of the commodore one is about 9.5-10 and the Bedford original is 11, so its probably going to just fit, I will go and eyeball the VZ one and take a few more measurements and if it looks ok i'll probably but one of the cheap ebay ones to try.... the Bedford one is only just inside the line of the bonnet so not a lot of room to move!

[Dazza92VP]

Just a quick side note does anyone have the boost ratios of the vn-vr v6 the vn-vs v8 double diaphragm steel type and vt brake boosters at all or know them have been trying to find the ratios but have only been able to find the vt one and still question that one too

[delcowizzid]

We started with torana end welded on the shaft instant fail from our engineer wanted threaded on end.ours is just like 19mm round stock threaded and then flats milled on each side in a mill and a hole drilled in it not a rose joint

[VL400]

I think that idea delcowizzid is probably the simplest solution with no welding. Can mill the flats and then just install and drill to the approx spot. Add a locking nut for the threaded fitting and get half turn adjustments for length which should be plenty accurate enough.

[Dylan]

Just a quick side note does anyone have the boost ratios of the vn-vr v6 the vn-vs v8 double diaphragm steel type and vt brake boosters at all or know them have been trying to find the ratios but have only been able to find the vt one and still question that one too

I do somewhere i will try and find tonight. VT had more than any previous. What did you find for VT?

[Holden202T]

I was always happy with the brakes in my VZ Ute, and even more so with better pads and slotted rotors..... the Gemini has the vt calipers and vn rear discs, and uses stock Gemini booster and XA/XB 1 inch master cylinder, it works great, although its not the sort of car I use for stop start braking in the real world situations so hard to compare, but I can always look at something like a Gemini booster and XA/XB master if worst comes to worst

I'd really like the VT-VY setup as it will match the brakes im using exactly so will look better for engineering....

and yeah my engineer is the same with the welding of steering and brakes .... he does not want any of it ....

but the threaded shaft on pushrod is no real issue for me, im more just trying to find a solution that means I don't need to turn the shaft down before I can thread it