Jayme wrote:in a stock electronic auto, even when the selector is in first, it will shift to 2nd on its own when you get near the rev limiter go try it one day..... VL400's suggestion fixes that.
Yes, that behaviour is mentioned in the owner's manual, it's purpose is to avoid over-revving the engine.
so why have a rev limiter if your gearbox changes gears first for you ?
I understand why they put it there and the only people that have issues with it is people wanting to abuse the driveline
I have a pool car at work, camry, you put it in stick shift mode and leave it in first and it changes gears at the same point as it would in full auto mode .... now that is a 100% WTF setup
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower!
Its just lucky GMH didnt setup the forced shift for the 2-3 and 3-4 shifts, the code was there to do what holdent202t describes but was just missing the scalars (the factory bin is hard coded to the maximum shift KPH). Could have left the stick in 1st and it shifts like an auto still Its annoying you cannot even take off in higher gears or shift to a high gear too early with these 'manual' controls of most new cars, while it stops stupid things its not really a true manual mode.
Holden202T wrote:so why have a rev limiter if your gearbox changes gears first for you ?
I understand why they put it there and the only people that have issues with it is people wanting to abuse the driveline
I have a pool car at work, camry, you put it in stick shift mode and leave it in first and it changes gears at the same point as it would in full auto mode .... now that is a 100% WTF setup
its free for me to drive around at work in between sites so I can't really complain
I noticed my cruze will pretty much do whatever I want in manual mode, and holden has made the minimum rpm drops or kph whatever it is, either way, you can't change up a gear and be in an area where it is below the turbos spool point so its pretty good that way!
No matter what the question is, the answer is always more horsepower!
Jayme wrote:a big big help for burnouts will also be to richen up the bottom end of WOT... (holden leaves it lean as under 3000rpm). makes it way easier to start spinning the wheels if you actually have power off the line.
for burnouts, I would suggest leaving the thermostat a bit more open than you need, then adjusting the fan ON temp in the memcal to 90 deg. that way on a static burnout the temp will still be regulated to 90 deg by the fan.
by default holden turn on the cooling fan at 103 degc and the high speed at 108 degc. that may have helped it overheat during your first burnouts...
Although i haven't got myself the programmer yet and haven't been with the car I've been slowly going through the parameters and trying to understand whats going on..
Already set it so 1st can be held manually and reset thermos to a better temp.
The main spark maps don't seem real smooth. Is it worth playing with timing much ? Is there somewhere to start with timing for a standard ecotech?
I'd like to richen it up a bit especially mid range as suggested. Do i just play with injector rate multiplier? Is there somewhere to adjust for WOT only?
Look at these two for WOT fuelling. left side is AFR to run at WOT at each coolant temp. right hand side is how much % richer to run it than that at each RPM point. so by this table, < 3200 rpm is 12.8:1, > 3200rpm is 6.25% richer = 12:1
for a race car / burnout car I would aim at about 12:1 ish flat. so zero out the right hand table and set the left to 12:1. verify on wideband of course... and clean the MAF with MAF cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. they tend to gum up a bit and run lean.
PE AFR.JPG
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go try it one day..... VL400's suggestion fixes that.
Its annoying you cannot even take off in higher gears or shift to a high gear too early with these 'manual' controls of most new cars, while it stops stupid things its not really a true manual mode.
