How to loose 200kgs?....

[0081(2)]

I wouldn't bother moving the engine back. its good where it is for a V6.

As I found changing that bias towards the rear on a V6 makes it worse. Having next to no weight in the rear makes it very snappy and nimble.


here is a thought, what if the rear end was converted to IRS of some form, tubular arms and sub-frame, that would reduce a ton of weight and reduce unsprung weight a whole heap. Live axle it a heavy breed. And leave room for finer suspension tuning. IRS is pretty good on dirt over live axle in my experience.

Just changing to a proper rear coil over set up would allow the use of tubular lower arms, and lighter springs, weight to be saved there yet. Considering it's already got a roll cage extending into the boot, fabricating upper mounts for the coil overs shouldn't be hard, just need to make some mounting brackets to weld onto the diff, Delco has good pics in his V6 Starlet thread.

Also consider making a tubular K frame, would allow you to lower the engine a bit which would be a bonus. Custom dry sump you could go even lower. Lower centre of gravity should aid handling.

Could also consider chopping out the trans tunnel and making a new one from alloy sheet.

Actually thinking about it a sheet alloy sump would be lighter than the cast one. even if you are not looking for extra clearance.

[Gareth]

Empty vs full tank does make a big difference, we always set up suspension to 'come on' with what fuel we expect to finish with.

Helium has been used in tyres before, there is no benefit in putting it in the rollcage, the area to fill vs's the the amount required to offset the weight doesn't come close... Consider how many helium balloons would be required to get someone off the ground.

I already eat lots of beans...

Moving of the engine is not allowed in my class, if it was, i'd be sitting next to it

All suspension 'pick up' points must remain in the original locations with minor exceptions, so rear coil overs is a big no... Bummer...

The gain of lowering the engine is only about 2.5 inches, plausible, but not worth the effort, yet... Think that everything has to be moved, rack, extend the steering shaft and power steering hoses, on and on.

Trans tunnel could go but... The body is a hybrid, half monocoque, half frame... The lower half of the body (floorpan) is quite structural, we seam weld the bodies in certain places to add strenght and rigidity to the shell (this one has cracked a couple of times at the gearbox crossmember to trans tunnel join...) so im not sold on taking out the floor

As for the driver being full of hot air, well anyone who has met me would vouch that i already have a big filling of hot air...

Keep the ideas coming

[Gareth]

Sheet aluminium sump is a great idea will look into that for sure

I should also point out that speedway is very hard on vehicles, if it can be broken, it usually will be... so its important to keep costs and parts availability in check to a certain degree.

[immortality]

Reinforced rear factory shock mount should handle a coil over. Still technically the factory location

The cast sump adds rigidity to the block. An alloy sump may puncture more easily. An earlier Buick sheet steel sump, although not as light as an alloy sheet one maybe an option.

[Gareth]

I run a thick, factory option steel sump guard (saved my engine heaps of times) so not worries about it getting hit, but add rigidity to the block is a good argument

[0081(2)]

might be able to use one of these to gain some of the strength back

http://www.maceengineering.com.au/epage ... iewProduct

[Gareth]

Yep, i recon that would be a great addition to haing a sheet metal sump would add a crank scraper to it though

[Gareth]

Found these...
http://www.qa1.net/driveshafts/circle-t ... riveshafts

[vlad01]

alloy con rods?

[delcowizzid]

our fibreglass bonnet and bumpers offsetted the weight of the 6 point rollbar we are fitting SL/E was a heavy old girl all wiring will be going soon its wired for electric everything LOL