How to loose 200kgs?....

[Gareth]

Here is a better photo of the front strut (no shock or spring)...

[immortality]

Do you have issues with broken studs?

Shouldn't you really use a hub-centric type spacer?

Do they make one of those driveshafts in your required length?

[TdracerTd]

Can you convert to later model lca's and steering knuckle/ hub? Then you could run an inverted type aluminium coil over setup. Heaps of weight in the early model strut/hub setup.

Shouldn't you really use a hub-centric type spacer?

It appears that there is a spacer on a spacer.

[Gareth]

Do you have issues with broken studs?

Shouldn't you really use a hub-centric type spacer?

Do they make one of those driveshafts in your required length?

No, they are ARP studs, never broke one, even in roll overs and heavy front end crashes (have bent some)...

Yes, but thats a 50mm offset, so I don't know of anyone who does them, I understand that would be a lot better... If you look close, thats a bolt on hub spacer that isn't using the stud mounts for extra studs, simply using two sets of nuts...

Not sure how long the shaft will need to be, I'd have to convert the getrag to a slip joint rear housing to be able to use a one piece shaft, they do mention that they do custom shafts, but not sure about how many millions they would want to do a two piece...

[Gareth]

Can you convert to later model lca's and steering knuckle/ hub? Then you could run an inverted type aluminium coil over setup. Heaps of weight in the early model strut/hub setup.

Shouldn't you really use a hub-centric type spacer?

It appears that there is a spacer on a spacer.

Nope, just one spacer on there... 50mm bolt on, not used as a bolt on...

Aren't later model LCA's cast iron?, thats a swear word

[immortality]

Yep, the VR onwards LCA's are cast iron but a lot stronger than what you are using, they also have a wider wheel track so would reduce the size of the wheel spacer you are currently using. Would be interesting to weight one of your reinforced early LCA Vs a later model one. I think they add about 20mm to the wheel track so that means only a 30mm spacer.

I see that your spacers are bolt on, however there is nothing to actually centre the wheel correctly on the spacer. TBH, it shouldn't be too difficult to have a machine shop turn up a hub-eccentric spacer, just ensure it's done from quality alloy. With the later model hub you could use a brake rotor will alloy hat, some weight saved right there too.

With the wider wheel track you could probably use these Hub-eccetric spacer 30mm, would just need to upgrade to some decent ARP studs.

[TdracerTd]

Can you convert to later model lca's and steering knuckle/ hub? Then you could run an inverted type aluminium coil over setup. Heaps of weight in the early model strut/hub setup.

Shouldn't you really use a hub-centric type spacer?

It appears that there is a spacer on a spacer.

Nope, just one spacer on there... 50mm bolt on, not used as a bolt on...

Aren't later model LCA's cast iron?, thats a swear word

You may be able to adapt a later model knuckle to the early model LCA's, then you could have the best of both worlds. The taper for the bottom of the early model struts should fit the late model knuckle, if not would be pretty easy to modify. Could have an added bonus of more caster.

Only way to find out is to get some bits and have a play. You may be surprised and by ball joints may even press straight into the early lca's.

[immortality]

I'm not sure, the early LCA's have a ball joint with taper lock fitting. VR/VS ball joints have a straight shank with a recess, the hub has a bolt through a split fitting which clamps onto the ball joint stud. Not 100% what VT onwards use. The later model ball joints aren't a press in type either, they are bolted to the LCA.

[TdracerTd]

Vt II an on are taper. VB-VP are taper also. Just that the VB - VP ball joint attaches directly to the base of the strut as the strut, stub axle and knuckle are one piece.

[immortality]

I'd imagine that the later model with the separate bearing hub and brake rotor are lighter than the early combined unit. If the later VT onwards taper lock is the same then doing that conversion may not be so difficult.

I looked at this conversion years ago but was using VR/VS gear which made it not so simple/straight forward

Edit: no where can I find what a dba 5000 series 2 piece brake rotor weights Vs a dba 4000 series single piece